20 Most Recent 2008 kawasaki ZX-6R Questions & Answers


Hi, Customcarste for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 22, 2018


Hi, Tola_man2010 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2009 ZX6R Engine Dies randomly intermittently Help please 06 zx6r randomly shuts off
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2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 22, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Neutral light bulb burnt out.
2. Faulty neutral switch.
3. A loose bulb in the socket.
4. Faulty wiring from the neutral switch to the light.
5. If the neutral light stays on while the bike is in gear the wire from the light to the neutral switch is grounded.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 21, 2018


Hi, Gonzales2015 before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 21, 2018


the fans should turn on when coolant is hot , I would go to a motorcycle electrician

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 19, 2014


Without knowing the bikes history, my guess would be that you have got oil involved. Sounds like you may have oil in the cylinders, and it WILL burn it off, eventually. Is the smoke a bluish, or more white? The blue is oil, the white is water. Is the unit more difficult to start than normal? If it doesn't start correcting itself very soon, I feel you should do more intense and involved inspection. Love these things, and really wish I was closer and could help you play with the repair. Best of luck.

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 15, 2012


Hi.

The factory did not made public the bike paint color codes.There are resources from third party sellers available.
Please use any of the resources below to identify the paint codes of your bike.

Check first with Color Rite. They list all Kawasaki factory paint codes:

Find your color code at Color Rite - Kawasaki Motorcycle Paint

Below more resources:

Full list of Kawasaki codes. From Japart-Nl.

Kawasaki codes explained.

Regards.

Ginko

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on May 05, 2012


OEM Type:
Yuasa #YTX9-BS Motorcycle Battery for Kawasaki ZX600-FA Ninja ZX-6R - 600cc (2008-2011)

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Jan 20, 2012


Depending on the type of alarm you have, it could be cutting power from the rest of your bike... .I know that on my CBR that if the alarm and battery are not hooked up in the right order then it will do just what you are saying. This is to keep a thief from just unhooking the battery/alarm etc and make off with your bike. Thats what I would check next since you have already checked the fuses. Also to keep in mind is that there is likely a main "in-line" fuse plus your fuse box to check.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jacob_ef07fae976be506b

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 02, 2011


Try heating the filter with a heat gun. It will expand with heat and should release.

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 23, 2011


is there a casing close to where the leak is if so then you could have a cracked seal on that casing be very careful not to run the bike to much and always keep an eye on the oil levels top up until problem fixed

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 18, 2011


fuel system may need to have solids (trash or water) removed.Clean tank, hoses and filter. If you find trash in any of these, the carbs are next to be cleaned out.

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on May 07, 2010


Keep the revs below 5000RPM for the first 500 miles,
don't stay at the same RPM for extended periods, its best to have the engine work at different revs so do "unnecessary" gear changes when on long straights, don't use full throttle acceleration for 500 miles and maybe change the oil at 250 AND 500 miles for the absolute perfect run in, you can also change the oil filter at 250 and 500 since the engine will be kicking out a lot of metal during the run in and the less metal the smoother the bearings and cylinders will be throughout the life of the engine.

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Jan 26, 2010


Swap out the Speedo. A used one should be about 100 to 300 bucks. Depending on mileage.

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Jan 09, 2010


Remove just the middle or go under the bottom of the top fairing a peace a cake'

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 24, 2009


Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
4. For 2 strokes make sure the power valve is adjusted properly.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.zx6r.com/zx6r/57072-07-zx6r-won-t-rev-over-8000-rpms.html
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kawasaki ZX-6R... | Answered on Aug 04, 2018


dirty pilot jets or dirt in your fuel system.

kawasaki ZX-6R... | Answered on Sep 19, 2016


Hi Baspillane, for more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki ZX-6R... | Answered on Sep 27, 2015


It's not F1, it's FI and it's a Fuel Injection problem. Can't help more than that but i'm sure your dealer can

kawasaki ZX-6R... | Answered on Jun 10, 2014


probably old gas or condensation built up in carb or injectors.if carbureated drain float bowl & if you still have old gas in it drain tank close drain screw/bolt refill with premium fuel add fuel cleaner like b12 chemtool or seafoam(7-10$) to a fresh tank of gas...sometimes i just add the b12 chemtool (3-5$)and run it a few miles and it snaps right back to new!

kawasaki ZX-6R... | Answered on Jan 08, 2014

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