20 Most Recent 2007 kawasaki EL 250 Eliminator Questions & Answers

Turn the throttle screw and the air screw inward until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. This is the factory setting. If you actually tighten them down at all, you will create a "ring" on the adjuster and it may affect performance. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

It's sounds like the brakes, Someone might have used the front brake really hard. try spraying the front caliper with a water hose to wash the brake dust from between the pads and the rotor. If that don't work pull the caliper off and see if the pads are glazed over. If they are you can take some fine sand paper and rough them up a little bit.

Which gaskets? there are probably more than 50 different gaskets to choose from

Hello; Unfortunately there can be many reasons for the problem. I list a few so you have something to ck.
Loose carbs or cracked vacuum lines
Throttle cable is actuating all carbs uniformly
All carbs are getting fuel
No broken exhaust baffles
Fuel quality is consist ant
Bttery is charging and voltage is proper

Tining/point plate is secure
Choke is not interfering.
Good Luck, _Ned_

You have probably damaged the float valve, it is very delicate, depending on how much pressure you applied, depends on how much damage, the float valve is a small pin with a point at one end, when the carb fills, a float pushes up on this pin, and the point of this pin blocks the flow of incoming petrol.
Remove the carb, remove the the screws holding the bottom of the carb and remove it
Inside the bottom of the carb is the float, it will be made of brass or plastic, it is delicate and very easy to bend, be careful, the float hinges on a pin that can be slid sideways to remove it, look at this closely, near the centre of this pin there should be a metal tab that pushes onto the float valve pin, sometimes the valve pin is held in a slot in the tab.
Slide out the float hinge pin, and gently lift the float upwards, check that the float is not punctured by shaking it gently by your ear to make sure there is no fuel inside.
Now you should be able to see the valve pin sitting in its hole, lift out the pin and examine closely at the sides of the point, any wear, and it will not be able to stop petrol and will overflow, also, even the smallest speck of dirt will cause this valve to fail, and the carb to overflow, all must be spotless.
the valve pin is not repairable, if it is worn or scratched, it must be replaced, on old bikes the pin point was made of metat, on newer bikes the point is made of a black rubber to give a better seal, both are very easy to damage, good luck, H

First gain accses by removing as much as poss to make it easy for yourself, you may benefit from undoing the securing bolts for the airbox and pull it back gentl after undoing the clip securing the rubber hose, undo the cables for the throttle, having first noted the amount of free play on the throttle twistgrip, then undo the clip conecting the front of the carb to the cylinderhead, remove any hoses which may prevent removal, also unclip tickover addjusment holder if applicible and then gently pull the carb from the rubber

Not sure what model you have but Kawasaki offers some online manuals at http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/SITE/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP

u hav a battery coil ign and always at 12.6v-a better rectifier will not ad power--get a standard one from dealer or salvage yard--u sure its the rectifier-may also be issues with alternator or batt

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Hi! The carb model for your kawasaki is EL 250-E2. If you want to know the specific part number of the carb parts please click on the link I provided. Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Please click here http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/1711-kawasaki-1992-eliminator-250-EL250-E2/assemblies/22368

try this get rolling in 3rd and just pin it wide open if it sounds like you should hauling a@@ but your not your clutch is smoked

piston rings could be problem by sounds take the spark plug out and buy a compression tester the compression tester simply screws into the hole off the spark plug and you kick the bike over till the guage cant go any higher and get back to me what psi it says and this will tel you if its the ring or not bud

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..