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2006 kawasaki KLR 650 Questions & Answers
Bike has been sitting for
good high octane gas and some carb cleaner for the dipharam in the carb may be gummed up or if injection use injection cleaner with a tune up....Hope this helps.
I have a 2006 klr 650 with 2450mile on it. Today I
The battery is dead. I suggest an AGM battery from bikebatts.com. The dual sport bikes especially can use those because they don't leak when you fall over in the dirt.
By the way there are some good dual sport sites like advrider and thumpertalk, and some good klr forums out there too.
Klr650 2006 not idleing good i have to keep the choke on a little
choke gives it less air more gas. but sounds like when you turn the handlebars you are pulling on the throttle cable somehow. check that it's all run right, if not tru tugging on the wiring harness that runs between the forks there may be some kind of short there,
Transmission
Is it possible your clutches are so warn they do not engage?
I am trying to put
uas a chaine tool.u can find one at your local out door moter sport store or napa should have one cheapper.
My 2001 KLR 650 surges
If the problem happens while cruising at a steady speed while driving down the road you are having an issue with an intake manifold air leak or an issue with the vacuum diaphragm in the carburetor top (stretched, cracked, pin hole, etc).
From the brief description you give (and the fact that the dealer adjusted the clutch cable), I assume you are dealing with an clutch that is not fully engaging when you shift gears. If what you are experiencing is the engine revving/slipping for an instant when you shift the problem is a bad clutch cable. The cable is binding for an instant allowing the motor to slip/rev for a moment before fully engaging. To check this unhook both ends of the cable, grab the end of the cable with your fingers, and slide the cable back and forth. If it binds the tiniest bit , replace the cable . Replacing the cable should fix the slip/ rev you experience when you shift.
To unhook the cable from the bars turn the adjuster nut all the way loose, turn the slotted adjustment screw all the way into the perch, line up the slots on the screw and the nut, use the cable slack to pull the cable out of the perch and unhook it from the lever slot. On the engine simply slide the end out of the slot on the lever holder.
How do I tell what
There is usually a tag located on the frame. The most common place I have seen it at is on the front of the frame where the front forks attach to. If the bike has a front fairing the tag might be somewhere else on the frame or the fairing might have to be partially removed to see it.
I have a 2004 kawasaki
If the battery is good you may want to inspect the wiring towards the switches on the handle bar. These wires are grouped together, so it is likely that both component may be affected. The other item is the switches. Check for worn out wires, terminals or loose connections. Other than that have the relays tested. It may be bad relays.
Below is a guide on how to test your relay.
http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-faqs/151951-test-relay.html
Pops and back fires when
Hi, you most likely have a fuel shortage or excess air problem, you didn't mention the year of your bike but,
-check fuel pump and fuses.
-sounds like plugged main jets or jet tubes in the carbs.
-Could be a plugged or faulty fuel petcock valve.
-Check if you have a good flow of fuel to the carbs. Check fuel filter, carbs or fuel injection.
-try draining the float bowls, could be water.
-check around carbs intake for air leaks, might be sucking air instead of fuel. Try spraying some carb cleaner or wd40 around the carb tubes and see if the engine speed changes.
-change spark plugs.
-if it is fuel injected, a dealer may be able to check fault codes.
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