Top 20 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F - Page 4 Questions & Answers

8thou inlet and 12thou exhaust, at TDC.

the VIN# has 17 digits
the year is the 10th digit.
If it is a Y then its a 2000, X = 1999, W = 1998 etc
If its a 1 then its a 2001 , 2 = 2002, 3 = 2003 etc.

Intake .04 mm
Exhaust ,06 mm

try to replace cdi kit, but be sure that source coil is working good.

I don't think you can fix this alone. Could be your gasket, so you need a same type gasket to replace it. It must be done in such a way that you seal the shock but do not hurt the gasket. If you decide to do it alone, be extremely careful not to scratch any metal surface. As for how to remove the shock, that is another story. You need tension screws, a stand, and some more tools that a service point usually has.

If you procced alone and need further help, let me know.

you pum p the lever or foot pedal for a couple of pumps then hold it down dont let go undo the nipple on the brake caliper the fluid will come out dont let go still then do the nipple up then you can let go and pump it up again and repeat til you think all the air is out or the lever is hard

pls rate

Hi. Here is the link to an excellent site that will tell you the model year of your particular machine. http://www.bikez.com/brand/kawasaki_motorcycles.php

J.

hi,might be able to help here,this is a two part answer,(1) without seeing the bike the condition you describe (hesitation) sound like the bike is running an excessivley lean air/fuel ratio,as it is not getting enough fuel when you "crack"the throttle open,the general rule of thumb for getting the air/fuel ratio somewhere near is as follows,locate the air mixture screw,this is normally a recessed brass screw located to the rear of the carb on either the left or right hand side,with the engine running turn this screw in untill the engine starts to struggle,then back it out untill the engine settles into a smooth idle,you may have to lift the idle speed before you do this,you will hear the engine idle speed coming up quite quickly as you back the screw out,you shouldnt need to back the screw out more than 1-1.5 turns before the engine runs smoothly,if you back it out to far then the engine will start to struggle again(will be running to lean)if you do take it to far then simply turn it back in untill the engine settles to a smooth steady idle,the engine should have picked up a few revs when you do this so simply back off the idle screw to get the right idle speed,you should now be able to blip the throttle and it shouldnt hesitate if it does,simply turn in the mixture srew about 1/8th turn this will richen it up a little,.....(2)the exhaust popping...two conditions can cause this,(overly lean air/fuel ratio)we have already discussed this and (2)air leaks in the exhaust sytem,when you back off the throttle air is sucked into the exhaust pipe and mixes with the burnt exhaust gasses leaning out the mix inside the pipe,all that is needed to ignite them is a wee bit of heat,the popping noises you hear are the gasses inside the pipe igniting(two stroke engines are famous for it that is way spark arrestors are fitted),so if you look at theses two areas,(fuel/air mixture and the exhaust system)you may find your problem dissappears...hope this helps...cheers ian

vacuum leak probably

The lever should be held on to the shaft by a clamp and pinch bolt. Both shaft a lever are splined and need s to be slide straight of. If it won't slide off, tap a scre driver in the clamp gap tospread the clamp a small amout. The kick lever should the come off.

Don't know this bike but I've only owned kick start HD'd.They work the same.The free easy crank on the kicker is the cylinder geting to the point of compression.The hard point is when you're there.Use your power and kick it!.Repeat if it don't start get to the hard point and kick it!..Make sure your gas valve is open and key on.Don't give it too much gas.If it don't start it's either Gas or Spark.Good Luck.

in a nut shell yes.you can find out the year from the number on the headstock.

1980-A, 1981-B, 1982-C, 1983-D, 1984-E, 1985-F, 1986-G, 1987-H, 1988-J, 1989-K, 1990-L, 1991-M, 1992-N, 1993-P, 1994-R, 1995-S, 1996-T, 1997-V, 1998-W, 1999-X, 2000-Y, 2001-1, 2002-2, 2003-3, 2004-4, 2005-5, 2006-6, 2007-7, 2008-8, 2009-9, 2010-A

for motorcycles compare the tenth digit to this chart 1980-A, 1981-B, 1982-C, 1983-D, 1984-E, 1985-F, 1986-G, 1987-H, 1988-J, 1989-K, 1990-L, 1991-M, 1992-N, 1993-P, 1994-R, 1995-S, 1996-T, 1997-V, 1998-W, 1999-X, 2000-Y, 2001-1, 2002-2, 2003-3, 2004-4, 2005-5, 2006-6, 2007-7, 2008-8, 2009-9, 2010-A and it starts over again along the same lines. for quads its the same thing check your tenth digit of the VIN to this chart 1971-1 1983-d 1995 2007- 7 1972-2 1984- e 1996- T 2008- 8 1973-3 1985- f 1997- V 2009- 9 1974-4 1986- g 1998- W 2010- A 1975-5 1987- h 1999- X 1976-6 1988- J 2000- Y 1977-7 1989- K 2001- 1 1978-8 1990- L 2002- 2 1979-9 1991- M 2003- 3 1980-a 1992- N 2004- 4 1981-b 1993- P 2005- 5 1982-c 1994- R 2006- 6

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)