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2006 kawasaki KX 250 F - Page 3 Questions & Answers
I just got my 06 kx250f bike a complete top end re
This is normal for a fresh top end. Fingers with a bit of oil on them assembled the top end and a bit of the oil is on the engine and is burning off. It will stop pretty soon. Go for a ride!
Please top rate this solution. Thanks!
How do i adjust my rear suspension , i want to
Looking the service manual on an 04 shows two seperate adjustment screws. One for adjusting the rebound dampening and the other for adjusting the compression dampening of your rear shock. The front has the same set up for each side of the fork. (2 pistons in front and 1 in back). If you look at the top of the rear shock on the right side of the bike, you should see an adjustment screw. That is the compression dampening screw. You should feel a definate click when you turn the screw to let you know how much you have changed it. Looking toward the bottom of the shock, you should see a screw labeled RBN. That is the rebound dampening adjustment. I would adjust the compression dampening first and then the rebound. Compression takes care of the initial part of the bump while the rebound slows the shock on the return to neutral. If the rebound is set to high, you will feel like the bike is trying to toss you off the bike like a bull. If the compression is too high, you will feel like somebody is kicking you in the arse.
Hope this helped. You should be able to find that 04 KX 250 service manual at:
http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/
I know you have an 06, but I'm sure it's very similar.
Good Luck
My 2007 KXF 250 keeps backfiring? why is this?
Backfires are caused by mixture burning in the exhaust pipe. I would suggest that you check the seal between the exhaust valves and the head when the piston is on the compression stroke. You may have a burnt valve (I understand KXFs are prone to this problem!). Try talking to Teamgreen Kawasaki, they may be able to point you in the right direction. Good Luck!
I have a 2007 kx 250F i have just put a rocket
Just remove the slide and move the clip on the jet needle down one notch. Try it and if more is needed do another notch. This will richen the low end air/fuel mix.
I get a top rating on this one! Thanks outlawz2u!
I am looking to purchase a 2007 kawasaki kx250f
Just call your local Kawasaki dealer, or any Kawasaki dealer, and give them the VIN number and they can look it up and tell you EXACTLY what the bike is. If you call a local dealer they may know the current owner and the bike's history.
Simple thing but easy to overlook. Could I get a 4 diamond rating for this solution? I am 3 short of 100 correct answers. Thanks!
How to set valves
To adjust your valves you will need a few standard tools and most importantly a set of feeler gauges. You can buy these at any automotive store. The first step is removing the tank and valve cover to gain access to the valve train. You will see both the intake and exhaust cams plus the tops of the valves. This is where you will be measuring with the feeler gauge. The next thing would be to rotate the motor to top dead center. You will need to remove both inspection covers that are on the side of your ignition cover. This will give you access to the timing marks and to the bolt that allows you to turn the motor over.
Check in your manual as to what direction to turn the motor over. You do not want to turn the motor over in the wrong direction. Turn the motor over looking into the inspection (top) hole. You will notice a mark on the fly wheel. When you see this mark come around, look up at the cams. There should be two punch marks on the cam gears that line up with the gasket surface towards the outside of the head. At this point you should be at top dead center compression. Check the lobes of the cam, they should not be touching the valve buckets. If they are touching the valve buckets, this means that you are 180 degrees out of time. Rotate the motor 180 degrees and then start to measure.
After you measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the valve bucket, you will want to write that down. You will then need to check your numbers against the spec's provided in your service manual. If you are outside the specified range, you will need to remove your cams and replace the shims. There should be a chart in your manual that will help you to decide what shims you will need to bring you within the safe range. When dealing with the KXF250 or the RMZ 250, you want to make sure you use the correct shims. There are two types that will fit these bikes, but only one is the correct shim. Shims come both forged and sintered. They look the same until you put them under a magnifying glass, then the difference is very clear. The forged shims have a smooth surface, while the sintered shims have very small cavities. Using the sintered shims will prematurely wear the coating off of the valve stem. This will shorten valve life and cause the valves to go out of adjustment sooner.
Now, after replacing the shims, all that is left is to reassemble your machine. Pay closer attention to the instructions in your owners manual. Always double check your cam timing with what is recommended in the manual. Do not start your bike without turning the motor over by hand first. If you feel it is unusually hard to turn over or it will not turn over, you probably are off on your cam timing. Once again, do not try and start the bike. Go back and retime your cams.
I have a 2006 kx250f
The parts called selectors which engage the gears can wear out specially if been abused
I traded for a 2007
If unfamiliar with 4 strokes, I suggest you let a dealer do the repairs. There is a whole world of things you can mess up on; cam mount torque, cam chain timing, sprocket positioning relative to cam lobe position, etc...
Hello, I hope you can
There
is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist
in starting. Below are generic instructions.
- The choke, used
when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
- The " Hot
Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean
the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
- The de-compression
lever, always used.
- The throttle, used
to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't
kick, instead, push
the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going
upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that
the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in
the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the
piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm,
(Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT
do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the
throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often
backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start
lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid
any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the
case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even
break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the
throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the
throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a
clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not
all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should
crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick. Please rate my answer.
NO COMPRESSION
blown rings, bad piston/cylinder tolerance, valve stuck open, spark plugs loose, hole in piston.
be more specific.
Mixture screw setting dont want
i would love to help but i need to know the type of bike you have and the year to get you that info..but the simple answer is the farther in the screw the leaner it gets the farther out the richer the mixture....lean is bad you want it a little rich i say bring the pin all the way in then 3 full turns or clicks out should do it. if it sounds like popcorn it is still to lean turn it out a little more let me know if this helps
I have a 2004 kx250f.
If the bike sat up for the winter, it's a real possibility the carb jets and fuel passages are gummed up. If this is the case, I recommend 1/4 to 1/2 can of SeaFoam added to your fuel. Lock down the front brake and rock the bike back and forth to mix the additive with the gas. Crank the bike and run at high idle for a few minutes, and since it is rideable, ride like you normally do and see if it gets more responsive after an hour or so.
I have a kx60 but
make sure the spark plug is good and if it is then the carburetor may need cleaned or adjusted
Ii was riding it earlier
The most common causes for this are a ceased piston (for instance, if there was an oil failure, the bike probably wouldn't have ceased until it was turned off) or if an internal bolt has gotten into the bottom end somewhere jamming the crank or kick mechanism itself.
Try removing the cylinders first, as that is the most likely cause of the failure.
If the piston is stuck in the cylinder, you may need to put a block of wood onto the piston and gently tap it out of the cylinder to effect repairs on the bike.
If the pistons come out of the cylinders without sticking, then having the cylinders removed will let you get a look into the crank area for loose bolts etc.
Don't forget to tie off the cam chain so it doesn't fall into the crank, because that's a pain to fish back out.
If you can't see anything wrong in the crank area, you will likely have to open up the bottom end to see what has gone wrong.
I wish I could be more help, but you didn't specify which bike you have.
If it's a 2 stroke, chances are the gas/oil mix was off or it ran out of 2 stroke oil and the piston ceased.
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