Top 20 2006 kawasaki KX 250 Questions & Answers

Hello have you try draining excess oil from engine, I would try that first and see if you can kick it . I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_18b4936ebf017b21

No it dose not need engine running

Obviously you haven't got a manual so the simplest solution would be to ring your nearest kawasaki dealer/or pop in and ask the mechanic to consult his workshop manual. Some will know off the top of their heads as they do it week in week out.

Check your engine and transmission oil for anti freeze. Also check to make sure your engine breather is not plugged. You probably have a leaking water pump seal , that is allowing oil to get into your anti freeze through the transmission. Normally when this happens the anti freeze goes into the transmission oil.
If there is no anti freeze in the lower engine or transmission , then the oil is leaking from a high pressure oil line going to the head to the cooling chambers filled with anti freeze. This means you probably need to replace your head gasket on the motor. While you have the head off check to make sure that the head has not warped. If it is warped it may have to be machined back to flat or replaced.

You mix with gas 40 to 1 ratio will work. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_18b4936ebf017b21

chuckbolton9 --I bought mine on ebay, i have a cannondale 440 ex that was hard to find , but i did on ebay ,cost me around 19.99 p;us 5.00 for shipping.Well worth the 24.99!

change the thrust bearing.

Yes, but put it back on by hand a then use a torque wrench to tighten it down. Remounting using an air gun could strip the threads on the crank shaft. New cranks are expensive. Chances are you will need a flywheel puller to actually remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.

Hi there
You will need to fully strip down the carbys to give them a good clean.
This will let you see if corrosion has set in.
Remove all the jets and clean, then blow through all the jets and holes in the carby bodys to see that everything is clear and not blocked.
You should remove the slides and needles and the jet that the needles go into(emulshion tubes). These have tiny holes in them that block easily so make sure they are clean.
Also remove the mixture screws. Then once you've blown out the holes(orrafices)replace them and set to 1.5 turns out.
You will need a pair of vacume gagues to set the sync(if the sync is out)
Regards Andrew Porrelli

sounds like your coil is packing in try the coil on another bike buddy if this works on another nike get back to me

hi buddy on the carb is a screw mixture screw fiddle with this screw until it revs ok and doesnt foul plugs i will send a pic when i get home nomrally you turn this all they way in and unscrew it 2 turns out

Drain the tranny oil and check for any metal in the fluid. that is easier sorry

I dont know about the '89 but i have read that the 1990 has about 50hp.

Sometimes you need input rotation to properly align gears spin the crankshaft a little then try.

check for the fuel filter in the bottom of the gas tank attached directly to the outlet

most ignition problems are simple 3 parts - fuel / fire / air from everything you've already worked on, it seems you must set your IGNITION to FIRE on time at higher rpm .

First, did it break or is it bent or is it stripped? These all require different approaches once you get the right side of the engine clear, clutch removed, etc... TAKE PICTURES WHILE YOU ARE DOING THIS to make sure you put everything back where it belongs. Do you have a clutch hub holder? (IMPORTANT) Do you have a air wrench, you will have a large clutch nut (24-26MM?) to remove and then reinstall the nut with the correct torque! If you do not have these tools, PLEASE take it to a PROFESSIONAL. He will have all the tools necessary. If the shift shaft is broke or bent it is going to be more difficult because it is a tight fit through the engine cases, they are aluminum and they will break if the shaft is forced out!! You will have to carefully saw the shaft off CLOSE to the case as possible before attempting to remove it. If its just stripped, it can be filed or sanded down, cleaned, and removed easily. Change the shift shaft seal too!!! If this is your first time to try this... and you don't have any of the tools I mentioned, PLEASE take it to a professional!!

Bent shift fork is your problem.1st and 2nd working fine,wont go into 3rd,replace the shift fork and stop being so hard on the shifter.Costs a lot of money to fix these toys.

Are you sure the torque specs posted are correct? They seem a little strange to me

i promise u its the carb buy the whole unit