The part is welded to the swing arm. A new swing arm is $228. Take the bike to a local commercial welding shop and they can easily create a new mount then weld it in place.
Best would be to clean tht area with the engine degreaser ,spray it around there and thn wash it away with water, start your bike and observe for leakage.
Not bad if you take it for a spin and thn observe tht area.
Hope this helps!
To my knowledge, the engine and the gear/transmission share the same oil in the crankcase. Clutch cable adjustment on most bikes could be done 2 ways:
after the clutch lever itself. There would be an adjustable end of the cable. It is locked in place by a coin like nut with grooved edge. This locked must be loosed before the cable end could be adjusted.
similarly at the bottom end of the cable that attaches to the clutch arm, the cable end would also have a thread end. There would be 2 lock nuts that must be loosened up.
You can experiment clutch play/slack to your personal preference. Soon as you are satisfied (number of tries clutching/engaging gears), then the locks could be tightened in place.
Question edited heavily into written English.
Question moved to model category.
First get the battery load tested. Sometimes there isn't enough amps to turn the starter and supply enough power to the ignition as well. Check all 4 spark plugs for condition and gap.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasaki+ZZR250+won%27t+start
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I would check the spark plugs for fouling and change them out if needed. Other than that, I'd agree with Gregg and ask for more information. year of the bike, does it start and ride, is this an intermittent issue or all the time?
When you say no power through the ignition, do you mean the bike is completely dead with the ignition turned on? Nothing at all works, no lights, brake lights, indicators horn etc.?
If that is the case, then first check that the battery has a charge and the connections are all clean and tight.......and connected the right way round. My bike has a parking light position on the ignition switch and this allows the little parking lights to come on with the key removed. If yours has the same, see if that switches the light on. Do you have a permanent live outlet that you can test? If the battery has power and is connected properly and nothing lights up after doing these checks, then it is either a main fuse or ignition switch problem.
If you do have lights then at least the above is all ruled out and the problem now lies in the starting circuit. Is the kill switch set to run and if so is it working properly? By that, I mean even if it is in the starting position is it actually functioning properly and has clean contacts, all wires connected etc. The same goes for the start button.
At the solenoid there are 2 connections that you will have bolted onto when you changed it. Turn the ignition on and short across these 2 connections with a screwdriver momentarily and see if it spins the starter. If it does then the relay may be faulty. I will attach a youtube link that really explains everything in plain language and is by far the best tutorial I have come across for this type of problem.
Good luck with it all, Steve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYec1yFX3YI
by placing your hand over the air intake you are making the engine create a vacuum that is drawing fuel into the combustion chambers
this indicates a lack of fuel to the carby or blocked jets in the carby
look for fuel filters , blocked petrol cap , problem needle and seat or give the carby a good overhaul.
You didn't say what year model, but really not much has changed on the GPX over the years. Which makes this engine swap a snap. You can try ebay for a used engine or possibly someone parting out a bike. Also, a company called Factory Powerhouse, they sell bolt in (pit bike) engines. Here is the link, i hope this helps.
Well not knowing what motorcycle you are working with I will give a general answer.
You may have a tube that is between the carbs or on the intakes. That tube might have a hose hooked to a crankcase breather.
If so one reason for the oil could be a person over filled the crank case with oil.
It is flooding. Check for a float sticking or a needle and seat sticking open. It could also have a hole in a float that is it keeping open. (The float could be full of fuel and failing to float).
definately flooded not sure of your model but if it has a vacumn fuel tap there is no OFF position you need to drain the carb bowls with the small drain screws at the bottom, and make certain the air filter element is not full of fuel, and check the oil is not overfull due to fuel contamination.then try and start with full throttle. Do not run the bike with fuel tap in PRI position or it may flood again
If it has an off position on fuel tap check air filter check oil turn fuel off start with full throttle turn fuel on
Hi,,it realy comes down to how much do you want to pay? you could use a good mineral based oil,,that is not expensive or you could go to a semi or full synthectic,that will cost more.
oil change should be done at every 5000km,,and in winter you can use 10w-40/ 10w-50 and in summer 20w-40/ 20w-50.
as long as you change the oil every 5000km and of course not using supermarket brand oil,,then the choice is up to you.
