20 Most Recent 2006 kawasaki KLX 110 Questions & Answers

SEE IF YOU CAN ROTATE THE ENGINE WITH THE CLUTCH DISENGAGED, IF YOU CAN, THE PROBLEM IS IN THE TRANSMISSION. I ONCE HAD A JOB WHERE A CLUTCH SPRING BOLT HAD BACKED UP AND CAUGHT ON A TRANSMISSION CASE RIB.YOU MAY HAVE DROPPED A VALVE, BROKEN A CONNECTING ROD, FAILED TIMING CHAIN, SOMETHING EXPENSIVE, NO DOUBT. YOU COULD START BY REMOVING THE SPARK PLUG/S AND LOOKING IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBERS, PREFERABLY USING A FLEXIBLE INSPECTION CAMERA. YOU WILL SURELY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD/S. YOU MAY LEARN SOMETHING WHEN YOU PULL THE VALVE COVER.

Clean your carb and set up your float height. You may even get away with just cleaning out the float bowl.

This problem is caused by a loose fit of the steering head bearings into their pressed in bearing race cones, if the play is not to severe you can tighten the nut at the top of the steering head shaft to eliminate the excess play, do not over tighten the nut, tighten it enough to just remove the excess free play, but leave a slight amount of play or you can damage the bearings. If after doing the above the steering head is hard to move you either have damaged/worn steering head bearings or you have the bolt to tight.

It is not a valve adjustment I think you will find that there is too much oil / gas in the gearbox. Some compression is getting past the piston rings and into the gearbox. That means unburned fuel is getting into the oil diluting it and slowly adding to the amount of "oil" in the gearbox. The pressure going into the gearbox is vented to the atmosphere and when the oil level gets too high the pressure carries some of the oil out of the vent tube and onto the road. Change the oil more frequently and most of the problem will go away. That is the cheap fix. The proper fix is to do a top end job; New piston, rings, and re-bore the cylinder if needed. Re-seat the valves since the head is already of to service the piston. The proper fix will probably cost $500 or so. Now, don't you like that bit of white smoke just a little bit? Please rate my answer. Thanks.

yes

Although the exhaust pipe gets hot this is extreme.It sounds like your exhaust valve is allowing combustion gases to exit the combustion chamber and go out into the pipe.I would say that the valve is either damaged,not seated properly or both of the above.The only way to know for sure is to take it apart and look for problems.Good luck

1.1 quarts

ABOUT A HALF OF QT OR A LITTLE BET MORE

Go to Kawasaki's web site and put in your VIN number and that will give the the model code and then from that you can get the year.

http://kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/SITE/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP

Sounds like the clutch is not releasing like it should. Try adjusting the clutch lever so that it will release the clutch more.

Ride Safely, Ed

the torque specs for the head is 16 lbs.

Hi, on the flywheel cover on the left hand side of your engine, there should be removable bungs to line the t mark on the flywheel up, there should be one in the centre to put a socket on the flywheel bolt to turn it, and there should be a smaller one towards the top to view the t mark on the outer edge of the flywheel, it lines up to a pointer or slot in the small hole. with this lined up, the valves should be closed and there should be a mark on the camchain wheel bolted to the cam, that lines up either horizontally or in a vertical line with the crank centre. Hope this helps :)

You will need to press it out. You can probably make something here.
A long bolt, that one end is sized to the pin, and the other end with spacers larger on the inside than the pin's outside. So that as you tighten the nut on the bolt, it will draw out the pin.

Typically it goes tank outlet to fuel filter to carb. Which end is confusing you? If its a 2cyl engine, with 2 carbs, then it may go to a split to feed gas to both carbs, but that's not likely on a 110cc.

you should have a no good
tension from the spring 92081 and check out for worn gear 13078 and 59051....sometime we just we strech the spring a litle and it help alot
and it lot less expensive but you have to get it to the right tension
you will also need a new clutch cover gasket.

a common problem with riders that speed shift (not that i'm saying you do) is that the clutch plates wear into the basket and or the shift forks bend or break either way you may have one of these problems or even shift detent or drum may be bad

While sitting still the gears are not moving. This sounds like a slightly bent shift fork. In the diagram below the slider gear moves left and right to engage the gears. The gear "dogs" fit into holes cast into the stationary gears. The grinding takes place as the fork moves the slider into first gear but the dogs are not getting moved the full distance needed to fully engage the gear because of the bent fork. The center case must be split to gain access to the gears and shift forks.

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Not much info was given. If it bogs when you open the throttle from idle, remove the cap from the top of the carb and pull out the slide assembly. Now move the clip on the top of the jet needle down one notch. Two notches may be required but start with one. See the diagram below.

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It sounds like you bent the shift fork, or at least the shaft that penetrates the case and holds the shift lever on the outside. If you are certain you are moving the shaft and the bike won't come out of first then you will have to open up the case and see what is bent or broken inside.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx