20 Most Recent 2005 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan Questions & Answers

Yes you have two float bowls, the carbs on your model is actually one set but they split in half, there is a needle and seat in each chamber and I would say that you likely have something caught in the needle and seats. I attached a diaphragm.

If the bike is reving high in top gear but you are not gaining speed or very little speed your clutch is slipping. This is a sign the clutch needs replaced.

might be piston slap meaning worn piston and or rings.any blue smoke?

Usually there is a lever at the bottom of the seat, at least it is that way on my 1985 Honda Interceptor, that allows you to access the battery, once the seat is removed.

On my motorcycle, a key is used to unlock a lever on one side, and the other side has a lever that is free.

Kawasaki is probably different than this as far as the exact location of the lever, but search around for the unlocking lever, I'm sure you'll find it.

Once you remove the seat you may have to pull a side panel to remove it to get to the battery fully, for removing are charging, etc.

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I found an article on how exactly to do this on a Vulcan Cruiser:
Cruiser Models

Taking the seat off a Vulcan cruiser differs among the various models. Some newer models, such as the Vulcan 1700 Classic, use a keyed seat lock. Simply insert the key, unlock the seat and pull it away from the frame. Other models, however, are secured by bolts. Bolted seats are usually secured at all four corners, with a set of bolts at the sides and rear of the seat and a metal catch tab securing the front of the seat to the frame. Slightly lift the edge of the seat to locate and remove the side bolts. The rear bolt is usually the easiest to find since it is often screwed into the rear fender. Once the bolts are removed, lift the seat up and to the rear to disengage the seat from the frame.

Read more: Best Way - Kawasaki Motorcycle Seat Removal | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5910982_kawasaki-motorcycle-seat-removal.html#ixzz0tlKFfT3F

i have found on these bikes that if the battery is not strong enough it does not crank the engine fast enough to start easily. Especially like it sounds like you are concerned about the charging.Maybee jump start the bike with a strong battery of a car or powerpack and see if this still happens. Beware when jump starting not to short the leads you could blow your CDI.

Turn key, press button, pray.

Seriously, what symptoms are you having? I assume the bike isn't starting. Does it crank? If so, does it fire at all? Starts then stalls? Smokes? Makes weird noises?

When I worked as a motorcycle mechanic, this was my busiest time of year when countless bikes would arrive in the backs of pickup trucks. Most of the time the problem is that they sat all winter with fuel in the carbs. Fuel in the tank isn't generally a problem. But before putting the bike up after the last ride of the year, if people would just shut off the fuel while the bike is still running, then wait until the engine dies before shutting off the ignition, at least 90% of the bikes that fail to start in the spring wouldn't have any trouble at all.

There are more steps that should be taken for putting a bike up for the season, but this one simple step is the most important and would prevent a lot of non-running bikes swamping the mechanics, who have to take apart carbs with extremely tiny jets and get everything cleaned up.

Use the process of elimination, you know the fan is good, now you should test the heat sensor. when the bike is cold the heat sensor should not let power past it to the fan, but when the bike is warm then the sensor should then let the power through, so test it either with a test light or an ohm meter! If the sensor is bad then thats the problem if not then check the wiring diagram to make sure there is nothing else on the same circut! If you need further help just drop me a line!

ok easyist way to jump start bike is positive to batery and negative to frame jump it from a nonstarted car otherwise it will ruen your wireing

rebuild carb

A 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 is rated at 60 HP.

Hi Todd: Sounds suspiciously like it would be brake fluid. Check to see if it is connected to the rear brake master cylinder. (that's the thing that has a shaft that is connected to the brake pedal) Motorcycles like Grade 4.

There's a black plastic knurled knob under the left side of the gas tank that adjusts idle speed.

fuel comes out of air filters????!! no, definitely wrong

Your clutch is either out of adjustment or it's fried.

CHECK WIRING CONNECTIONS ARE NOT LOOSE .

Hi.

I have just sent you a comment on a different thread. I see that you posted the same question on separate thread. I am also posting here as I do not know if you are following both thread. Better to keep the problem on a single thread. Below my previous comment:

Hi.

There is no "diagram" showing the whole routing of fuel lines in the bike. You need to use different diagrams in Fuel System section of the service manual. Fuel system section starts at page 15 in service manual, but what you really need starts at page 40. I have posted fuel service manual at the end of comment.

There is one forum where users discussed the routing. One user has colored the diagram from service manual to indicate lines routing. Here the diagram:



Here the forum, I quote:

"The red and yellow are the fuel lines that go to the petcock. The green one you left unmarked also goes to the petcock. The line with a question mark is a vacuum line that connects to a part in front of the battery along with the larger lines to the cylinders."

Here the service manual in PDF format.

Regards.

Ginko

Just measure the voltage at the battery with the engine idling - in a normal system you should have around 14.2 volts. If its lowerthan that you will need to measure the voltage given by the stator, it should be above 14 volts AC. if you get that then the rectifier is defective, if you get less it's the stator itself.
Beware, the stator should be the 6 wire version, the cheap chinese copies, with 5 wires, are *******, they don't deliver more than 13 volts so it can't charge the battery.

If the problem worsens as the engine gets warmer, than it is mostly likely running too rich...The engine uses more fuel at start up when its cold, so if its running rich there will be more fuel than is necessary when it warms up. Lean the fuel mixture a bit.----------- Also other possibility is faulty starter relay, the relay getting stuck when engine warmed and releases when engine is cold.Check the starter and starter relay.If all checked ok, then battery is the issue.Try with another battery, this will confirm the problem.This will help. Thanks.Helpmech.

sounds like a dodgy earth either reseat the one you have or drill a new one

Hope this helps

John