Hi,there is some stuff on the market called XADO (have a look on ebay) it fills in deformed scratches and gose to parts that are high friction areas.
I know this stuff works as I use it on all my vechles,go and have a look and make your own mind up,hope this helped all the best.
a lot of new bikes have a automatic choke ,but if you look at the carburetor you should see 2 cables 1 is the throttle cable the other is the return cable both run up to the throttle hand control (some bikes might not have a return cable) if you see a third cable its probably the choke cable so you will need to follow it , sometimes it might not be a cable but a leaver on the side of the carbi , some cables run just under the seat or to the left handle bar depends .
If you race this bike then I would suggest at the end of every full race meet dump the oil and filter as apart of the clean down to put away for next race day routine obviously fill it back up when due to race next
If your just recreational use and not going on the rev limiter all day long then about every 2 - 4 hours of running time would be OK
simple rule of thumb with the four stroke Motocross bikes if you love the bike and you can afford it change the oil as much as possible you cannot change to often in my opinion
(just don't over tighten the sump plug just nipped up is fine)
cheers mate happy riding
there is a nippel on the brakes u need to pump the brakes for a few times and hold it in and will u holding it somone els must open nippel to releas air and fluid this must be repeated till brakes is hard.make sure the brakefluid stays full while ur bleeding and dont pump brakes while the bleeding nippel is open
The screw is an easy fix, take it to a local hardware or auto store and they should have something to replace it with. If you stripped the hole however, you may need to get it re-tapped.
Sounds like you may have air caught in your line from not cracking and pumping the air out after filling the lines.
The following are a few things to think over to see if they might be the problem:
Did you make sure the resovior was full the WHOLE time and topped up as you put the fluid in? Even a tiny amount of air in the lines can cause spongyness.
What Fluid did you use? Was it a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid?
Is the Bleed Nipple done up again tightly?
Did you have enough suction on the bleed nipple as you ran the new fluid through?
Is the resovior full again now that the brakes have fluid in the lines?
Check these things, or try re-bleeding the brakes. Remember to tighten, compress and crack the nipple after running the fluid through to push any air out.
Check the video for a walk through on how to bleed them and crack the air out.
Have you checked your coolant level? I am sure you have, so tell me was the coolant pressurized more than what you consider normal? Is your water pump impeller failing? Purhaps your thermastat is sticking and not allowing the coolant to flow as necessary. If the latter is the case, your radiators will usually be cool while the engine is very warm.
Let us know what testing or diagnostics you have already done.
Chances are the flywheel key is partially sheared or fully sheared off causing the spark to be out of time.. The crankshaft could be misaligned due to the top end blowup. Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?
The way I bleed bleed front and back breaks on any bike is with a big vet suringe(full of fluid) with a thin tube from it to the caliper nipple and push til the bubbles stop coming,works for me give it a go.
Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.
If unfamiliar with 4 strokes, I suggest you let a dealer do the repairs. There is a whole world of things you can mess up on; cam mount torque, cam chain timing, sprocket positioning relative to cam lobe position, etc...
There
is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist
in starting. Below are generic instructions.
The choke, used
when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
The " Hot
Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean
the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
The de-compression
lever, always used.
The throttle, used
to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't
kick, instead, push
the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going
upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that
the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in
the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the
piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm,
(Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT
do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the
throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often
backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start
lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid
any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the
case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even
break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the
throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the
throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a
clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not
all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should
crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick. Please rate my answer.
