Top 20 2005 kawasaki KX 250 Questions & Answers

Hi mate sounds like you tested all the standard stuff you obviously know what your doing - In my experience when I get a bike like this where all seemingly is good and set correctly but no sign of life when trying to start 99% of the time ends up being the stator.
And I know it seems strange but I honestly up to about my tenth bike now where even though shows spark at plug when kicked over test, the stator still at fault when tested with Multi meter (way out of spec.)
If you have your repair manual flick through and get the spec ranges for the resistance on your stator then disconnect the stator lead at the CDI end and its very simple set your meter to ohms and plug into each pair of wires (usually 3 pairs) and see what readings you get
don't worry to much if you don't have the spec range as if it is the stator you will quickly notice you get zero reading on one pair of wires if not all three?
let me know if you want more clarification on testing
If all this fails to assist then my advice would a be leak down test to diagnose compression leaks, open valves, gasket leaks etc Then I would pay attention to the pilot circuit of the carbi, Double check your timing and valve clearances, Then I would be back to testing stator again?
Very rarely your coil pack (spark plug cap) can fail but be worth testing it when you have your multi meter out ( you looking for about 0.08 - 0.10 resistance reading on it) and even more rarely the CDI box can fail, no real way to test this apart from plug new one in and test if cures things...
Being that 5-6 years old and you know the bulk of how to fix and maintain this sound more and more like a stator problem..
On the up side if you do need to change the stator great opportunity to change cam chain aswell they run like brand new with full stator power and a brand new cam chain
cheers mate .... Good luck!

You are on the right track. Make sure your air/fuel mixture is good. How hard do you ride the bike? When was the last time you changed your clutch? A worn clutch can give you the same symptoms. Make sure your clutch is properly adjusted. If so, it probably needs to be replaced. The KIPs (kawasaki integrated powervalve system) should be cleaned routinely to avoid carbon build up.

Everyone will tell you the oil they use is the best, so you are going to get a different answer from everyone that answers. I've been using BelRay MC1 for over 35 years and I have never had a lubrication related failure. I am still proudly racing 2-strokes at the top amatuer level. I have heard good stuff about Amsoil but I don't use their premix. I do use their suspension and brake fluids, though.

I suggest using BelRay MC1 at at least 32:1.

I hope this helped.

check/clean the carburator, adjust the air screw... lack of fuel, causing the the engine to backfire when you close the throttle... adjust idle...

hi there mate how are you the dry weight of this bike is approximately 97kg this is the dry weight which is without oil and fuel.. hope this helps thanks ladjr2

A KX 250 has no timing it is a 2 stoke motor are we sure it is KX 250 and not something else ??

Remove the carburator to gain access. Unbolt the reed block from the back (rear) of the cylinder. You can replce the reed block assembly, or if you just got the reed pedals, they attatch with small screws. Use blue loc-tite #242 on the reed pedal screws so they don't loosen up. You will need to replace the gasket (s) with new ones and torque the cage bolts to spec. (Pay close attention when you remove it, so you know how it is re-assembled.)

Change your oil immediately - replacing with the proper quantity and quality lubricant recommended by Kawasaki.

your wheel bearings are a sealed ball type. the seal will have the part number code on it.you can get bearings from a engineering supply shop.you can measure i/d and o/d and width to take to the shop for verifercation if bearings have collapsed and code numbers are detierated.dont forget that you need dust seals which will also have numbers on them.rule of logic if back bearings worn you might as wll do front as well.they are cheap so if you put in alot of riding hours buy extra sets for your tool box .you never know when they give way until it is to late.hope this info helps you out.happy riding!

The clutch fluid may need filling up and replacing. If the lever and cabling are ok it could also be an issue with the mechanical parts. I am thinking on the tension of the clutch as it is engaged on the gear. You may have to inspect the inside as the cable is not transferring force to relieve the clutch. Check for linkages that may have come off.

hi, this could be as a result of mall adjustment, or simply clutch plates stuck together as a result of the machine standing, normaly running the machine and using the clutch is enough to cure this,otherwise you may havee to remove the clutch plates and check for worn or distorted plates, it may also be that the clutch basket is worn not alowing the full release of the plates, check for exsess ware in the form of groves cut by the plates in the outer and inner basket.
thanks for using fixya
paul

ebay. motorcyle salvage yards.

hi, you do need the use of some special tools, to change a conrod-big end kit, presuming you have the engine striped and the crankshaft removed, i would take it along to a recomended garage to carry out this service, paul

1-2.5 inches of deflection.

mineral motorcycle oil SAE10W40 should do. Cheers

Hi
As long as they are both 12 volts the battery doesn't care. Put the charger on the lowest setting and remove the cell covers from the battery. Make sure acid is over the plates. If not add water. Just trickle charge or you will burn it up!

Two stroke motors with wet clutches are notorious for sticking when left for a period. Older oiler will leave a slight residue on ends of friction plates. If it is a regular thing after every stop, you will need to rinse clutch with a solvent. You don't need to dismantle if you are patient and carefull when applying solvent as it may discolour alloy cases and paintwork. Use a premium grade MOTORCYCLE GEAR OIL only and your problem will be solved if your clutch is A1 mechanically.

.90 US quarts

there is the problem in the clutch plates kindly remove it by the new one otherwise it will leads to the choking of engine

hhhmmm,
Being the front of the motor may make this suggestion a bit silly.... I have heard of this sort of problem before and it turned out to be air sucked through the throttle butterfly plate bushing. Happens only when certain vacuum is present and the throttle plate is in a particular position,revs at a certain point etc. Check for wear in the bushing. They can be re bushed, or get another carby for it. Check also that you dont have any intake manifold leaks. Use carby cleaner about the manifold,quick spray and the revs change means that you have an air leak, could cause a whistle/squeak noise also. Hard to find these sots of things. I could suggest having a fiddle with the throttle shaft when the noise occurs, to see if you can isolate it better.
Seeing that it comes from the front of the motor, check all your exhaust for good seal also. With a bit of back pressure, it may be a leaky exhaust up front. Bit of a worry that it keeps chopping up bearings. What oil mix are you using? I doubt that it is engine internals. Unless something is very wrong. May also be a water pump if my other suggestions wrong. If it relates just to revs, then sounds like a bearing... maybe waterpump. If it stops when you roll the throttle off keeping the same revs, i reckon intake or exhaust leak. Let me know what you find. Cheers
regards robotek