20 Most Recent 2005 kawasaki KDX 220 R Questions & Answers

on the top of the forks ull see a where a flat head screw driver will go turn it a half a turn on both sides. or u might have to buy stiffer springs

Locate the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)(on the front frame down tube). The 10 (tenth) digit in the VIN indicates the year of manufacture. If the tenth digit is a '5' then it is a 2005. If it is a '4' then is is a 2004, etc. If the tenth digit is a letter it was manufactured before 2000 with Z being a 1999 and back from there.

Below is a generic diagram. If only one mark is present it points upward and in line with the crankshaft center line. If two marks are present they line up with the gasket surface of the cylinder head. The piston should be on TDC and the cam lobes should be pointing downward. Be sure the chain is on the crank sprocket, not wedged between the sprocket and the balance weights. Also be sure that the chain is taught on the front side of the engine. Any slack should be at the back side of the cylinder so the chain tensioner can work properly.
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Check fuel filter and fuel pump.

J.C.Whitney sells aftermarkey manuels and bike bandit sells the orginals and aftermarket Rember that most factory service manuals arn't in print and they can be very expensive

well im asuming you need help with a slipping/moving shift lever, if im right then take it off and lock it in a vice. then take a hack saw and make the gap wider by taking a blades width from in side the clamping area. then drill the threads out of the tighting bolt area so a longer bolt and nut can replace it. the re mount and tighten till tight without crushing anything.

the float is sticking on your carb you can lightly tap on it and it might come out of it if not you wanna pull the carb out and take off the bottom piece then you will see the floats you can take some carb cleaner and spray it all out and hope it runs whitch if you take that route id run some Sea Foam cleaner thro it. but your best bet is to either have the carb rebuilt of buy the rebuild kit and do it your self

Two stroke motors are very sensitive about there timing. Most are timed at exactly top dead center. In some rare cases they are timed to fire at 1 mm or 2 mm before top dead center. It is possible that your ignition is advanced to far. When the plug fires too soon , it rotates the engine in the wrong direction. Try having someone with a dial indicator (gauge that goes through the spark hole) check the timing to see if that is an issue.

on a classic bike the wiring is aging-u need to inspec the harness and components with a clymer manual--if u cant get any resolve u can use old fashion hand signals-but use right arm when turning in that direction to be safe

You can replace any fuel petcock on the motorcycle. You do , however, want to get all the fuel out of the tank first. Siphon out both sides of the tank first and tip the bike over to get any remaining fuel to the far side of the tank. Then you should be able to remove the fuel petcock with minimal spillage of fuel. Be sure and put an old towel under the petcock when you remove it. NO SMOKING

I would start with a new rear stop tail bulb, they have 2 filaments in them one for the brake and one for the lights. When one blows it can short to the other circiut.
Make sure you get the exact same bulb with the same numbers like 12v21\5 which is 12 volt 21watt stop and 5 watt tail

u need a rebuild manual and dont do anything until-bookstore ,library or online cowboy

adjust the tab upwards just a tad should be 19mm from the surface off the carb to the top off the float with the float just touching the inlet fuel valve basically with carb at an angle

thinc electrical 1st-its weakest link-inspect wires-specially plug area-fuse-starter--cam chain sproket could hav loosend at cylinder head;keepin ur valves open for damage by piston--may hav water in chamber--take heed to bottom end

check your fuel supply and fuel filters,especially the one which is part of the fuel tap,(these often get neglected and end up causing all sorts of strife)you may have to remove the fuel tap from the tank on some models but this is a very simple job,if you do remove the tap take care not to destroy the rubber o-ring or gasket between the tap and the tank..hope this helps

first are you getting spark?second are you getting fuel? to check the spark take out the plug and put it back into to cap(holder) do not touch the plug and turn over the engine.you will see a small spark.if not you starter coil is bad.to check the gas look under the carb there will be a overflow hose by the overflow hose is a flathead screw,open it if no gas comes out you will need to take out the carb and replace the float valve.

Intake manifold or intake manifold gasket depending on which part you refer to.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.