Top 20 2005 kawasaki KLX 125 Questions & Answers

its plugged so you cant mess with it

Here is some rule of thumb specs intake should be between .003" to .005" exhaust should be between .006" to .008" When it's set right, it should feel like pushing a butter knife through butter right out of the fridge, also be aware that sometimes the lock nut can either tighten the clearance or loosen it.. This is a job to really take your time on

Google your question and you will find that the answer is easy. Yes. same engine.

yes if i can take a wild guess it shood not more than 1 liter but for to be on the safe side it is better to have to much oil than to less

Scooter, Jonway 125cc

Im not familier with your specific bike but here are some ideas:-First check the float valves, these are usualy in the bottom half of the carb. Take the bottom off, and you will see a plastic float, attached to the float will be a small bullet shaped piece of metal with a rubber coan on the top (may have to remove it to see it). Remove the float & the valve, make sure there is nothing stuck on the float valve rubber tip, and nothing is in the hole where the float valve sits.If this looks ok, next check the float levels, you may need a Haynes manual or similar to find out specificaly how you do it as you may need measurements.Dont panic, this is a fairly simple thing to do (trust me Im no expert), you will need to repeat this process on all the other carbs (if you have more than 1)You can also check your vacume valve (if you have one). Its a small pipe that connects from the carbs to the peterol tank (This is an additional pipe to the fuel pipe), this creates suction when the engine is running opening the fuel tap on the tank, letting fuel flow, if the tap is stuck, or the vacume pipe is damaged this could allow fuel to flood the carbs, (shouldnt if the float valves work correctly, but worth a try)I hope this is of some help....

Press the caliper against the rotor while holding the rotor from inside not to bend it.Unbolt the rear axle's bolt and pull it out.Move the wheel a bit to the front to take off the chain and then remove it.

Fuel running out of your vent hoses is due to your float needle plugged. You need to loosen the carb boots, and turn it to remove the bottom bowl. The float will move up and down and it pushes a needle into a jet that lets fuel into the bowl. If there is dirt in it, it can't stop the fuel.

cleaning the carbs is tricky. pull and clean the jets

not if you choke it

Turn the throttle screw inward or outward as needed. Please rate my answer.

Your Kawasaki klx125 is a four stroke motor cycle. Do not use 2 stroke oil. Use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil . In this case use 10w-40. A synthetic oil has some benefits . Your bike will run cooler and shift easier. Do not use car oil or any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label. These oils will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears ( different additives ).

Any kawasaki dealer can order you one. Many are also on-line.

have u checked the float hight on the carburator? also make sure ur choke curcuit i clean and free of dirt

air filter dirty, wrong or bad fuel as in mmixture or water in fuel. Check fuel and drain if tainted

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

A known common issue with the Barako with either the kick or electric version specially when cold, in the early hours of the morning or if have not been used for some time. A couple of initial ideas to try:

• leave the petc0ck open (even overnight);
• before starting, twist the throttle a couple of times;
• use the choke;
• you may be interested to explore the possibility of modding the carb with one from an Eliminator.

In most instances, tyagaan lang yan but of course is a pain pag nagmamadali.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

I'm not 100% sure on this particular bike, but most late model hi-perf japanese bikes have shim adjustment. You can tell if you take the tappet cover off & the cams run straight ontop of the valves, If it's shims, you need to turn the motor until the cam lobes (pointy parts) face as opposite to the valves as possible (usually upwards) so the valve is completely shut, then use feeler gauges to me asure the gap between the valve tip & the cam. The valve springs can be compressed slightly (carefully) to let the shim on top (or underneath) the bucket be removed & replaced with the right thickness to give factory specs. Sometimes one shim from one valve can be used to make another valve correct, leaving less shims to buy. If not shims, should have a simple screw & locknut adjuster, same setup, just measure between valve & rocker, adjust to factory specs (or slightly smaller for more go)

try to use a maintenance free battery.

no manual needed ,slide the black rubber cover back away from lever,undo large circular nut,release the cable tensioner ,the lever is held on with a single nut/bolt remove the bolt, unhook cable ,replace all parts in reverse order, readjust brake cable

There's a knob or screw by the carb, turn it clockwise.