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2004 kawasaki VN 1600 Mean Streak - Page 3 Questions & Answers
Running bad fi light on
FI stands
for Fuel Injection. The fuel system sensors have detected a problem. It could
be anything > a dirty air filter restricting airflow, a plugged
injector, an error in fuel mapping, any number of things. Serious
problems can trigger the computer to prevent the engine from starting
until the problem is fixed. You will need to take the bike to a dealer to have
them plug in a code reader. The code reader will tell you exactly what problem
has been detected. There is also a chance a sensor has gone bad and is
giving a false signal. Keep that in mind. Now determine if you want to do the
fix or have the dealer do it. Please
rate my answer.
I want to change the
Hello
There are small drain plugs at the bottom of each fork tube, use a separate container for each fork tube, drain out the oil and set it aside, and then remove the top fork tube cap at the triple clamp, add EXACTLY the same amount of the correct fork oil that you drained out.
I have a led kit
This applies to 99 and later FI models. (Note, Removal for Carbed Bikes is simpler only needing the fuel line removed from the petcock plus a vent line or two)
It will be make things much easier if you drain the tank if you're doing this by yourself. Otherwise you'll probably need a helper to hold the tank while you disconnect hoses from the bottom. All you need is a siphon hose (and what teenager has never used one of those on dad's car eh?). If a piece of 1/2" garden hose isn't handy visit your auto supply store and pick up three or four feet of clear (so you can see the gas coming toward your mouth) 1/2" id (or close) plastic fuel line. Sometimes it's sold off a big spool sometimes pre-packaged hanging on a peg. You can also find clear hose at many hardware stores (even Home Depot & Lowes).
Follow the instructions below up to #8 (so the tank is loose) and put a block of wood under the rear of the tank so it's tilted forward slightly. Put your hose in the tank, apply suction (hopefully without getting a mouth full of hydrocarbon) and transfer fuel to another container.
Special Caution: Do NOT remove the pressurized hose if the engine has just been running or even if you've had the key on in the past few minutes. If the hose is removed before pressure has a chance to bleed off you WILL spray gasoline all over your bike and maybe yourself.
1. Remove the seat
2. Remove the chrome instrument surround (take out bolt and slide the surround forward)
3. Slide the speedometer assembly forward and off (if digital), lift out and disconnect speedo cable if analog.
4. Disconnect wires from speedometer assembly and set assembly aside in a safe place
5. Disconnect the other 2 wire connectors. It'll be handy to have a small flat blade screwdriver for this so you can push down on the catches while pulling the connectors apart
6. Remove front cap nut and rear tank bolt. Both are 12 mm.
7. Remove the one or two vent hoses you can see at the rear of the tank. (California bikes have two vents, most others use one).
8. Lift the front of the tank and put a folded shop towel on top of the engine right under the fuel lines. You'll get a few drops out of the lines when they're unplugged.
At this point a helper will be real handy to hold the tank up while you disconnect the fuel and vent lines especially if there's any fuel in the tank.
9. Remove the the fuel return hose...(the one with the metal clamp). A little gas might come out.
10. Remove the pressurized fuel hose...this one has a "squeeze" fitting. You just squeeze on each side of it with your fingers, push the fitting up toward the tank just a little then (while holding the 'buttons' in wiggle side to side to release it. A few drops of fuel might drip but the rag should take care of it.
11. Remove the square plastic piece and vent hose on the right side of the tank. It's next to the fuel line you just removed and covers some electrical connections.
12. Remove the vent line toward the rear of the tank. This line runs to the collection of vent hoses near the rear of the engine.
12. Finally, Remove the tank.
It probably took you longer to read all that than to actually do it and once you've removed the tank you won't hesitate to do it again for general maintenance especially if there's any chance you could drop something on it.
Re-assembly is in reverse order.
Caution!!!!! The hose with the 45 degree angle plastic connection with squeeze sides must snap into place when it's re-attached to the tank. If you don't hear it snap then you are at very high risk of having the hose slip off the tank fitting when the line pressurizes or maybe as you're rolling down the street. When that happens you will be pumping gasoline directly onto the top of your rear cylinder. A decidedly bad thing. Be Certain It Snaps!!!!
Is it safe to apply
Hi and welcome to fixya,
Its okay to connect the charger to the battery leads for as long as you don't turn the switch on and you should disable the alarm as well (if you installed any). For safety reasons, I'd still recommend disconnecting the ground terminal.
Hope this helps,
levibit
2004 with RevTech DFO. I
The RevTech DFO is just a basic digital fuel optimizer designed to increase the fuel flow and the power of the engine as a consequence. It increases the time for which the injectors stay open, based on a very simple law so there is no need for other modifications to the bike's ECM. It just plugs in between the original injector leads and the injectors themselves so cutting the power to it like you did cut the power to the injectors completely - so it's normal that the motor didn't started. BTW the adjusting plots are for fine tuning the opening law on different portions of the rev range.
Here is the leaflet
http://www.customchrome.com/cC/images/eng_upgrds/dfo.pdf
No, the battery disconnection had nothing to do with it, the setting are set in the EPROM of the ECM, they can be erased only when the ECM has been fried. Have you been careless when removing the battery? Like keeping the contact on and removing the plus plot first?
There is no way of reseting the ECM, if it has been damaged then it must be replaced as a whole.
Fuel pours out because that injector is badly commanded. To find out where the fault is located just remove the DFO completely - plug the original leads directly in the injectors. If it's the same then the ECM has been fried and you will have to replace it
The horn is not working.
If the the thumb switch is the problem , you have two options . Either take the switch apart carefully enough to clean the contacts in the button and reassemble it , or if that does not work purchase a good used/or a new switch assembly and replace the entire assembly.
I have a relay with
the "30" is your "+" power terminal
the "85* is your "-" ground terminal
"86" and "87" are the rest of your wire connections.
Good enough, please rate the advise. Thanks
My bike has just clocked
please check the engine oil level once the engine oil level is low or its older you will get this type of symptoms
How many quarts of oil for engine. then shaft for
You could always check in your owners maunual, or contact your local dealer for the bike, they should be more than happy to answer that question for you. if not, try checking the side of your engine their should be a little look window that will yell you when its full, if not their should be a dip stick, just keep an eye on your levels, so u will know next time, as for the shaft, when i change my shaft oil in my varigo i go pour the oil in till it reaches the top. Hope this helps you.
I have a 2002 Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 I'm customizing it can the rectifier be moved so it's not just hanging there.
Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components.
While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:
- Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
- Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
- Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
- Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.
Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality.
If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.
12/23/2023 9:33:25 PM •
kawasaki...
•
Answered
on Dec 23, 2023
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