20 Most Recent 2004 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 4 Questions & Answers

the fuel is evaporating with the heat of the engine,hence hard to start untill its cooled down, check you fuel filter / pressure regulator and see if its holding fuel pressure..

The top heavy is the nature of the beast. The oil lite issue is slow oil pressure build up. The plenty of oil? now here we talk about the noise Oil lite, bottom end noise could be the result of poor oil. Drain the oil and vhange the filter. My suspicion is that the oil, is either wrong weight or diluted with fuel,
Do not run anymore or you can lose a rod bearing. Use only oil from a motorcycle parts supplier. There is a difference between regular engine oil and motorcycle oil. Motor oil and wet clutches don't get along very well. Good Luck, Ned.

YOUR MECHANIC IS SOMEWHAT RIGHT TO AN EXTENT. KAWA 1500'S ARE CHARACTERISTICALLY NOISY IN THE VALVETRAIN! BEEN AROUND THEM SINCE THEY WERE BORN. NOW IF YOURS IS PARTICULARLY NOISY, HAVE THE MECHANIC CHECK THE VALVETRAIN AND CAM CHAIN TENSIONERS FOR PROPER ADJUSTMENTS. THIS IS CRITICAL FOR THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE!

the break light not working could be due to the pedal sensor not connected or faulty .check also the wiring loom under the seat as it could be disconnected .
in regards to the small headlights , check all fuses as you could have blown fuses as well .
contacts could also oxidise and not making contacts

I hope you have a jack... I had to remove the pipes and bags on my 04 vulcan nomad so I remove the cotter pin and pull the axle out of the rear hub. Then removed the spcer and rear brake. slide wheel assy. out of the drive hud on the left (removal of brake and spacer allow this) and drop the tire down. It's not hard...

try this check the bulb if bad when u put another one in use paper so you dont get oil on the bulb from your fingers this causes the bulb to burn out quicker alson check the switch on the brake might have went bad .if not check all wires make sure all looks pluged in also you should check the fuzes hope this helps

you might have a charging system problem without the bike charging system it is only running on the battery power, and once the battery is too low to fire the ignition it will die, check your fuses and power cables to the battery, selenoid and starter, then check the regulator/rectifier, could also be your stator or rotor, only a few possabilities but you will find it.

take it straight to a mechanic to be re aligned obviously when you put it back together u either missed a washer or was not ligned up properly into the slots u can attempt to do it yourself but in most cases youll end up back at square one

it sounds like you have a leak in a hose from the radiator (if fitted) if so cheack all hoses and even the radiator for leaks if its a hose just take it off and take it to a hardware store and ask for a pipe exactly the same as it

need to start by checking the float height in the carburetor also check the needle and seat just above the float for debris or damaged seals as this will cause the carb to overfill with fuel and pore out the vent. I would suggest a clymers service manual for specifications on the carb. goodluck.

YOU NEED THE SPECIAL FACTORY TOOL SE OR A WOBBLY AND EXTENSION ON A RATCHET REMOVE SEAT COME IN FROM BETWEEN THE FRAME SEAT ARE AND GO FOR IT AND FROM THE FRONT SIDE THE SAME BUT MOST IMPORTANT YOU NEED A FLEXIBLE SPARK PLUG REMOVER

How is the stator plate and coil? Do you have a new plug in? Are you getting fuel to the carb?

check to make sure the front forks are compressing at the same rate. Check fork seals. If one side compresses easier than the other it can cause a vibration in the bars as one side is dampened more than the other.

Google " motorcycle salvage kawasaki " chances are you can find one there. If interior rust is a problem get a liquid tank liner. Rust is no longer a problem. Google “ kreem fuel tank liner “ or go to www.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html

Top rating on the answer? Thanks :)

Pull the right side cover off which should expose the radiator overflow bottle, just like a car. Towards the front of the bottle are the marks for full and low. Open the top and put in motorcycle specific antifreeze if needed.

The problem seem to involve a number of circuits, I would suspect the Key switch as it supplies power to all affected systems. The dieing on release of the clutch is usually the kickstand safety switch. If the kick stand is not up, and the bike in gear, then when the clutch switch detects release is kills the engine so you don't kill your self.
Check or replace these switches.

Hope this is of some help.
Ed

Yes, it sounds EXACTLY like a stuck float. You may be able to fix it yourself depending on how accessable the offending carburetor is. Quite often you can free up a stuck float by setting up a bit of vibration. Give this a try > tap the side of the carb repeatedly using the plasitc end of a screwdriver. You are not looking to hammer the thing to death, just create minor shocks. The shocks / vibration will often free up a stuck float. Please rate this solution and let me know if all went well.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To my understanding and in some versions, there is a 30A main fuse located at the starter relay. To locate the starter relay, trace/follow the + battery cable. There would be a rubber cap. Upon removal, the big terminals would be exposed as well as the main fuse.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

The starter is in the lower front part of the engine.
It is not connected to the Clutch..

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

There is a master fuse. It is 30 amps and is located at the side of the starter motor relay. To determine the location of this relay, follow the wire from the + terminal of the battery. The main fuse is responsible for supplying all the electrical power of the bike except for the starter itself.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa