20 Most Recent 2004 kawasaki KX 250 F Questions & Answers

There is no reason for the idle to take 10-15 seconds to slow to normal. perhaps you have a vacume leak. check all your seal and gaskets between the engine and the carb.also when it is running spray gummout spray or equivilent around the gasket edges between the engine and the carb, if the idle increases when you spray then you have a vacume leak. (intake leak). It may be that this is causing it to be hard to start when it is hot.(not getting enough fuel)

Koubalink I am short as well, could ride fine, but as the bike is tough to kickstart, I needed the height to get a full range on the kickstart. Bought a Koubalink, fitted it in about 30 mins and worked out perfectly. Cheers

i had a similar problem with mine starting and re starting hard. my problem was the vavle clerance on the exhaust side. the vavle was so tight it took me 20 minutes or more to start it. once it fires ran fine, a littel hotter than usal. i check the vavles for the proper clearance i adjusted them to manufacture settings put a new plug in and vroom started in less than 5 kicks. also check the acc pump diphram they tend to dissolve with age and use one they got bad or get thin the bike will not run right. once you have checked all of this also change the pluge, always helps to have a fresh plug.

hope that gets you started any more qustions let me know

mr. green

Starting problems on your bike are usually related to twisting the throttle too often. Remember, the carb has a diaphragm pump in it that gives a shot of gas each time the throttle is twisted. That means the engine can flood quickly if you get happy on the gas. Gently use the kickstart lever to ease the piston just past top center on the compression stroke. Now give a good strong kick. Repeat as needed.

Try draining the carb. Condensation may be in the float bowl. Also install a fresh spark plug.

Sounds like a warranty claim???? New unit required!

Have u checked your kick start shaft might be striped or broke?

the shaft seal is bad behind the pull start and leaking oil into your stater which is why you arent getting any spark for it to crank

Sometimes the offset of the rims are different from model to model or the spacer width are different lengths from model to model ? Would be worth confirming with a Kawasaki shop if these wheel from 05 - 07 inter change or you could be bashing you head against the shed wall !
Another thought is I assuming it has spacers each side of the hub are they the correct side or does the rim look pretty centered in the swing arm as is ? Could be worth swapping just to see if any different - good luck regards Jamie

apart from the obvious check air filter is clean spark plug is good and your pilot jet in carb is all clear form dirt or gummed fuel my next step would be put a tooth or two bigger rear sprocket on it to lower the gear ratio this will give more torque low speed maybe whilst you looking at the sprocket just check that some has not change the front to smaller sprocket it being few years old some one may have set to get more top end speed and sacrificed all the low end??

Check float level Also check fuel mix 32-1 ideal mix ratio Maybe reed valves might be trash in them Try new set MOPAR KENNY

There might be chi zed piston or broken rings or valve seal. Check all the three and spark too.

Depending how badly they are bent, it may be straightened. By using a press it is possible to straighten the forks if they are not too badly bent. I have done this in the past... It's not easy!

sounds like your jets are stopped up,may need to do a good clean/rebuild,sounds like the pilot jet is not allowing fuel to flow at idle because of the stopped up issue.(carb kit).

you should always put some sort of assembly tube on

Simple task, get the bike up on a stand so the back wheel is off the ground. Loosen the rear wheel nut (big 21/22mm nut attached to the spindle that goes through the wheel hub) not too much, just enough that the wheel will move when you adjust the adjusters. Now, on either side of the swing arm you will see a bolt, with a lock nut, running from inside the swing arm, onto the axel block, which the spindle goes through. Adjust these either out or in, depending on whether you need to loosen or tighten the chain. If loosening the chain, you might want to give the rear tyre a kick forwards to move it in (after you have loosened the adjusters inwards). So thats how you do it, simple. The chain should have no more than half an inch movement up and down after adjustment. Lock the adjusters in place using the lock nut, then tighten the big wheel nut up, job done.

Mista B.

need more info does it hit at all

take it off and take the float bowl off and take a air and blow out all ports the the use carb cleaner and spray the inside of carb then put it back together and put back on turn the gas on to let the bowl fill up then start the bike

The valves probably need adjusting. This should be done periodically with four stroke dirt bikes. When my bike's valves need adjusting, it kills me trying to kick it, and it backfires a lot.

Another symptom I have noticed for valves that need adjustment is when I pull in the clutch sometimes, the bike will stall.

Hope this helps.

hi, is this from around the shaft? if so a seal is fitted to this, it is easily replaced by removing the gearchange lever, und using a small sharp pick to push between the shaft and the seal, with not much effort you can pull the old one out,clean around the shaft and seal area and gently push the new 1 in useing even force all round, TIP IF YOU LAY THE BIKE DOWN ON ITS RIGHT SIDE YOU CAN REPLACE THE SEAL WITHOUT REMOVING THE OIL.