Top 20 2004 kawasaki KX 250 Questions & Answers

Sounds like a valve timing problem to me. Put the engine at TDC (top dead center). There will be marks on the cam gear that should be aligned with the top of the head casting. This is something that could be damaging to the engine so be careful. A manual is a good investment.

remove stator cover and flywheel (puller required), verify crankshaft key is not sheered, and stator plate is in its proper position. There is no timing mark on that flywheel because it is irrelevant and not needed. This is most likely not a flywheel timing issue but a CDI timing issue. The CDI timing is governed by the TPS switch on the carburetor telling the CDI when to change timing maps and curves. If the carburetor is dirty and you cranked up the idle to run off the main circuit instead of the proper idle circuit this can happen. Or you have an improperly set, or failed TPS switch on the carb.

Sounds like a failing ignition coil or trigger. If you let it cool for a long while it will closer to ten minutes and the plug is dark and fluffy then its weak spark. Check the coil ground and wire condition also.

low speed carb settings need ajusment also look at choke-cleanin may be in order

im presuming its a two stroke it sounds like the two stroke oil pump-which is starving the engine of oil-change the pump before u destroy the engine-this is not a maybee,your engine will need a total rebuild if u carry on riding with this problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Its a nut and bolt job ,you may have a problem getting the calaper to fit back over the disc .If this is the case drain off a little fluid to allow the caliper piston to be pushed back in the caliper housing ,this gives the pad room to fit over the disc..If in doubt speak to your local kwaka dealers mechanic ,for some good advice .

Hi,

Check the rear bearings, the place where the rear is mounted to the chassis, and your rear spring and mounting.

I hope this is helpful, succes and greetings,

Olivier.

buddy you have to split the engine in half to do this also heat the bearing up which will open them up buddy

Thats a strange one.For some reason it may be just locked in 2 gears at one time.Lift the bike of the ground onto some sort of stand.Don,t start it.Take the plug out.Run the rear wheel backwards and forward.Clicking the gears at the same time.This might 'unlock' a wound up box.Being off the ground you can't hurt it.Just try different gears and in both directions.I hope this helps,because its a strange problem if all was ok beforehand.Thanks

You can get better traction that way sometimes. I would set to factory specs unless riding in the goo

that will be the clutch you will need to remove the oil and the case and do an inspection to check if parts are worn or broken

Sometimes you need input rotation to properly align gears spin the crankshaft a little then try.

check for the fuel filter in the bottom of the gas tank attached directly to the outlet

most ignition problems are simple 3 parts - fuel / fire / air from everything you've already worked on, it seems you must set your IGNITION to FIRE on time at higher rpm .

First, did it break or is it bent or is it stripped? These all require different approaches once you get the right side of the engine clear, clutch removed, etc... TAKE PICTURES WHILE YOU ARE DOING THIS to make sure you put everything back where it belongs. Do you have a clutch hub holder? (IMPORTANT) Do you have a air wrench, you will have a large clutch nut (24-26MM?) to remove and then reinstall the nut with the correct torque! If you do not have these tools, PLEASE take it to a PROFESSIONAL. He will have all the tools necessary. If the shift shaft is broke or bent it is going to be more difficult because it is a tight fit through the engine cases, they are aluminum and they will break if the shaft is forced out!! You will have to carefully saw the shaft off CLOSE to the case as possible before attempting to remove it. If its just stripped, it can be filed or sanded down, cleaned, and removed easily. Change the shift shaft seal too!!! If this is your first time to try this... and you don't have any of the tools I mentioned, PLEASE take it to a professional!!

Bent shift fork is your problem.1st and 2nd working fine,wont go into 3rd,replace the shift fork and stop being so hard on the shifter.Costs a lot of money to fix these toys.

Are you sure the torque specs posted are correct? They seem a little strange to me

i promise u its the carb buy the whole unit

1996 KX250T

A weld will ruin the temper of the metal, it will fail. A rim that cracked probably is weak elsewhere.