20 Most Recent 2004 kawasaki KDX 220 R Questions & Answers

Release pressure on the system by opening the bleed screw on the slave cylinder on the rear wheel. It looks like short metal pipe with a nut for a base.
If this works you have a problem with the brake master cylinder or the brake pedal is not adjusted properly(no free play)
If this does not work you will need to remove the rear caliper in its entirety as you probably have a jammed piston.

The kips is a power valve.
It moved a little when excellerating to actually change the exhaust port timing as the engine revolutions get higher, to gain more power.
If you say it runs good at full throttle, you valve is working, but it may be slow moving if gummed up.
Also, if your jetting is too rich, it will bog down.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher at hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slides back in the throat of the carbs, Move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

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check engine oil and change the oil seal of engine

Check fuel filter and fuel pump.

J.C.Whitney sells aftermarkey manuels and bike bandit sells the orginals and aftermarket Rember that most factory service manuals arn't in print and they can be very expensive

well im asuming you need help with a slipping/moving shift lever, if im right then take it off and lock it in a vice. then take a hack saw and make the gap wider by taking a blades width from in side the clamping area. then drill the threads out of the tighting bolt area so a longer bolt and nut can replace it. the re mount and tighten till tight without crushing anything.

the float is sticking on your carb you can lightly tap on it and it might come out of it if not you wanna pull the carb out and take off the bottom piece then you will see the floats you can take some carb cleaner and spray it all out and hope it runs whitch if you take that route id run some Sea Foam cleaner thro it. but your best bet is to either have the carb rebuilt of buy the rebuild kit and do it your self

Two stroke motors are very sensitive about there timing. Most are timed at exactly top dead center. In some rare cases they are timed to fire at 1 mm or 2 mm before top dead center. It is possible that your ignition is advanced to far. When the plug fires too soon , it rotates the engine in the wrong direction. Try having someone with a dial indicator (gauge that goes through the spark hole) check the timing to see if that is an issue.

on a classic bike the wiring is aging-u need to inspec the harness and components with a clymer manual--if u cant get any resolve u can use old fashion hand signals-but use right arm when turning in that direction to be safe

You can replace any fuel petcock on the motorcycle. You do , however, want to get all the fuel out of the tank first. Siphon out both sides of the tank first and tip the bike over to get any remaining fuel to the far side of the tank. Then you should be able to remove the fuel petcock with minimal spillage of fuel. Be sure and put an old towel under the petcock when you remove it. NO SMOKING

I would start with a new rear stop tail bulb, they have 2 filaments in them one for the brake and one for the lights. When one blows it can short to the other circiut.
Make sure you get the exact same bulb with the same numbers like 12v21\5 which is 12 volt 21watt stop and 5 watt tail

u need a rebuild manual and dont do anything until-bookstore ,library or online cowboy

adjust the tab upwards just a tad should be 19mm from the surface off the carb to the top off the float with the float just touching the inlet fuel valve basically with carb at an angle

thinc electrical 1st-its weakest link-inspect wires-specially plug area-fuse-starter--cam chain sproket could hav loosend at cylinder head;keepin ur valves open for damage by piston--may hav water in chamber--take heed to bottom end

check your fuel supply and fuel filters,especially the one which is part of the fuel tap,(these often get neglected and end up causing all sorts of strife)you may have to remove the fuel tap from the tank on some models but this is a very simple job,if you do remove the tap take care not to destroy the rubber o-ring or gasket between the tap and the tank..hope this helps

first are you getting spark?second are you getting fuel? to check the spark take out the plug and put it back into to cap(holder) do not touch the plug and turn over the engine.you will see a small spark.if not you starter coil is bad.to check the gas look under the carb there will be a overflow hose by the overflow hose is a flathead screw,open it if no gas comes out you will need to take out the carb and replace the float valve.

Intake manifold or intake manifold gasket depending on which part you refer to.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..