20 Most Recent 2004 kawasaki KX 125 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

if you contact your local dealer with the frame number they will tell you the build year.

It sound as if the top-end of your motor is getting a bit tired. Being a two-stoke engine you'll have less components to work with then a four-stroke. You'll want to remove the head and cylinder. Take your time with it and keep it clean. Do it right and have the cylinder cleaned up with a new piston and rings. On assembly use a torque wrench, you'll be working with aluminum so it strips easily. I am uncertain if you need to pull the engine but if not I'm sure you'll want to remove the fuel tank, exhaust and carb. Use a digital camera or phone to take photos as you go. Take the time to tag parts as to what goes where (A to A, B to B) Clean all items before assembly.. do it right the first time.
Hope this helps,
Tom

a quart of oil

try ebay or kawasaki dealers, i had numerous problems with my 1990!!! - KX 125, kawasaki in crawley UK were a great help, sending me breakdown diagrams or the bike free of charge, AND without all part numbers blocked out like most, also Wemoto are alrite

all the best

tom

hi there try

http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/9/Kawasaki.aspx

hope it helps

When u put those new things on the motorcycle, u go easy with the motor, u shouldn't had driven it half day. Do a compression test. check your timing again, change your spark plug, was your timing chain properly tensioned

what size bolt heads on these bolts (the bolts size chart for correct torque specs is 2mm smaller than the head of the bolt on Kaw).while the forks are still off and the end caps also still off,hold them level (up/down) and by hand (which will be easy because the caps are off to let the springs come out past the tube-but leave them in as they change the amt. of fluid goin in)push down slow to compress and bottom them out then fill till you get 100mm from inside the top of the forks tube is on the mark.then pull them back to fully extended ,put the caps CAREFULLY back on so they dont stripp the soft threads up.P.S.if this was used at a track there are 2 inexpensive brass or copper bushings inside the big tubes top and a bit lower that will get worn and let the inner fork tube **** back and fourth as it compresses in and out that causes the seals to leak again very soon because it flexes the round inner part of the fork seal to become out of round (not tight all around the tube for correct sealing) from slack and to much movement from the above mentioned cheap bushings wear.I cut em out with a dremmel and freeze the new ones for easy insertion with fingers to not nick em from tappin in with a hammer,etc.good luck,wallace

1991-2000 Clymer makes a manual that covers all years.

your local post office has a form to register a vehicle with dvla. this will enable you to find out the year of your bike. there may be a charge for this service from dvla. for a free answer, try your local police station, just tell them you have suspicions about the vehicle,and they should help you.

Would a factory parts diagram of your entire bike, and a source for parts for your 24 year old bike get me a Very Helpful rating?

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

They make a 1995 KX125 (124cc)

The steering stem on your bike has the VIN stamped into it. Write down the number and call a dealer. He has a chart and can tell you what year, style and more.

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Call a dealer with the frame number (VIN #), and they can tell you year, model, cc size and more.

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have you checked the reeds inside the induction side if they are corroded from sitting it will cause that problem, also check the spark plug, may just be a case of weak spark ,if still no good check the coila good way to test if it is a spark problem get a can of aerostart (wyns start ya bastard) and spary a little in carby, should start real easy. if so then spark is your problem. also just thinking check tat your exhaust has not collapsed inside itself or is blocked, that can cause no power too. hope i have been of some help.

There will be some drag with it in gear and the clutch disengaged. The big test.. does it try to creep along when idling in 1st? The wheel should be free enough to turn by hand sorta, but there should be resistance. Once the oil is warm the drag will decrease significantly. When adjusting the clutch be sure to have the proper free lever. If you have it too tight it's going to start slipping, and hose the plates. You should be able to slip a penny between the handle and the perch at the gap crossed by the cable, before the clutch starts to open (the lever moves on the motor)

Wat lube are you running in the case? some goopey slop will cause a significant drag. When the clutch is in you are still turning all the gears in the transmission, that is a load of drag!
Have you recently rebuilt clutch? Check for notches in the basket dragging on the plates.

Plates and liners out of order will really drag bad. Have you had the plates out of the basket?

When it's idling and you put it into gear, does it kill the engine?

Easy to find! Just phone your local Kawasaki dealer with the VIN numbers and they can give you all the information you want. In the off chance the dealer is too busy or just doesn't want to please a customer, just Google ' Kawasaki motorcycle texas ' and you will have plenty of other dealers you can call. Use your own state or any state in the Google search.

Please rate this answer. Thanks jungersmatt!

check on the logbook??

Yes, the arrow should be facing forward. It is possible to find a small amount of oil in the crank. If the previous owner were using an odd oil/gas ratio like 32gas/3oil instead of the normal 32/1. The proper mix is four ounces two stroke engine oil to one gallon of gas. The more oil in the gas, the more oil in the crank. This odd mix usually happens if the owner doesn't know the proper mix, guesses the mix at the pump or just doesn't care what goes in so long as the bike still runs.

If you found condensation on the piston then the crank would have likely received the same blessing. Check the crank bearings.
Hold the flywheel in your hand. Lift it up and down then move it left and right. Any movement or is it rock solid? If movement then you will need to take the gearbox apart and install new crank bearings and seals. Put the old cylinder and piston back in place without the head for a moment. Put the bike on blocks so that the rear wheel is free to turn. Have someone rotate the rear wheel while you work the clutch and gears. If the gears don't want to shift smoothly then plan on installing a new shift fork or two. Now would be a good time for a new sprocket shaft bearing and seal as well. Don't forget a new foot shift shaft seal.

While you are doing repairs, de-carbon the head and cylinder. Run the piston down and check the exhaust port. Over the years carbon may have built up in the port and plugged it nearly closed. It should be about the size of the intake port. Remove the buildup to allow the engine to breathe.

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Install an in-line fuel filter. Install a new stock NGK spark plug.


Drain and clean the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

I know this answer is more info than you asked for but I don't want you to have to go into the case more than once. Congratulations, you just rebuilt the entire engine.

Please rate this answer. Thanks Paulette!

Im not a bike mechanic but i am an automotive mechanic, it sounds like an air block or most likely a blown head gasket, if it has a thermostat check or replace it.

You want the shift drum in to be in neutral. Rotate the shift drum to the point where the sprocket shaft is not turning when the main shaft turns. You are now in neutral. From there you can shift through all the gears by rotating the main shaft as you turn the shift drum to change gears.

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