20 Most Recent 2003 kawasaki KX 250 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

sounds like a wrong part if its hitting

Check you are getting fuel to the cylinders, check that you are getting a spark and also that the battery is fully charged. and you could try with the air filter removed, this will tell you if you need to replace the filter. if you still have a problem you will need to do a Static ignition timing check. The way to do this will be in your manual.

complete cylinder compression test. should be approx 120 psiif low you will have to replace piston rings.was bike running good before?

try a coil on another bike that would be my bet then get back to me buddy

Not sure if it is right, by most likely a 2005 enginehttp://www.analogx.com/cgi-bin/cgivin.exe?Mode=Decode&VIN=kx250he005571&Submit=Decode

you can find manufacturing year on the chassis of bike and for your safety I suggest you to replace complete ignition switch, because you can not find the proper key if you find that is only adjustment which is not safe.

Check the Solenoid. That controls all power going from battery to starter, and to ignition. The solenoid may have gone bad.

Screw this screw in until it stops, then back out 2 1/2 turns this is your starting point to try and adjust to run.

Something is holding the float needle open. A piece of trash, or the needle isn't in correctly or it may have gotten lost? The specific year and model of your bike was not mentioned so I chose the image below on a wild guess. The diagram is a 2004 Kawasaki KLX 125. Yours will be the same or very similar. In any event, this is the area that would be causing the problem. If you need parts, go to www.babbittsonline.com

pull clutch in, roll back and forth, shift DOWN

also remember how the gearing is
1-N-2-3-4-5-6

im guessing you're at 2 or above

if you were in 1st gear, you should be able to shift UP to get into N with the bike stationary

if you are in 2nd or above, you NEED to be moving in order to shift up or down
clutch held in of course

so lets say you are actually in 4th gear
you hold clutch in
rock the bike
shift down
now you are in 3rd gear
repeat until you get to N __________________
YUM!!!

Have to check with the machinest the extent of the cylilnder damage before you can decide the size of the over size piston.

will it free roll with the clutch pulled in ? If no adjust your clutch its dragging and mis aligned , if yes , your shift linkage needs to be adjusted

If you can kick it over, it's not siezed. Or it did seize and broke the connecting rod. If it's a 2-stroke, removing the cylinder head and inspecting it should be relatively easy. if it's a 4-stroke, I would recommend the factory repair manual before doing any disassembly. Good luck!

The owners manual provided with the bike has all the info required to do the top end on this motor. Be advised that this motor has a chrome cylinder that cannot be overbored to clean up damage or wear. There are a number of sources to send this cylinder into to be re-chromed, and they will provide you with piston and gaskets as a complete package as well. It is a fairly simple job if you have the book, you should be able to find that online to download at little cost if you don't have it.

Could you let us know what model it is as many different Kawasaki's and all take different volumes of oil

Replace the sleeve is the only option - I think there would not be enough cylinder wall left if you rebored it as it is a sleeved cylinder it relys on the sleeve for extra wall thickness and strength you can rehone the sleeve if it is not too badly scratched you can get honing tools around $80 ish? they fit into cordless drill

Please check your jetting ( main & pilot ). Are they work. Check also your floating valve for stuck. A stuck floating valve will not allow the fuel flow.

Regards

A couple of possibilities- - Float is corroded and not floating - Valve either gummed up or worn and stuck - Float level not properly set
Typical float valves
Typical floats

does it have spark and are the rings in right aliment and is the gas on i have made that mistake

The reason the system will not pump fluid is because there is air in the master cylinder pump. Typically, air trapped in the master cylinder is the cause of the lack of pressure. Cover your paint and plastic first with a plastic bag and then with a towel in case of spillage. Now loosen the banjo bolt on the master cylinder just enough to let allow fluid to leak out when you pump the master cylinder. Pump the master cylinder until you get a big push of DOT 3/4 brake fluid at the banjo bolt(usually 2 or 3 pumps). Now tighten the banjo bolt and bleed the system (slave cylinder) to get the rest of the air out. Be careful to keep DOT 3/4 brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not pump it dry, if you **** air into the master cylinder you will have to start all over again.