2003 kawasaki KDX 220 R - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The Amsoil is an excellent oil to use. I would use it or Motul at a 40:1 ratio.

Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals try here

40to1

20w50 :-)

40:1 is generally the ratio for this bike, as long as it was jetted correctly for that ratio and hasn't been messed with.

If you don't know the bike's history, check your silencer isn't ejecting any excess partially burned oil and there's not excessive smoke, also check the spark plug to see how its burning. It should be chocolate brown.

The drain is to let water out, if it gets splashed in through deep water crossings, wet weather etc.
They usually have a type of rubber cover with a split to let water out not in.
Wont make much difference, block it off completely if your going through a lot of water

FLOAT IN CARB IS STUCK NOT SHUTTING OFF FUEL FLOW
REMOVE FLOAT BOWL AND CLEAN OUT
THIS SHOULD FIX THE PROBLE,

When you filled with new oil, if you changed the oil filter, and the oil was at the top third of the inspection window after you started it and then shut it off, the oil level is correct. When you start the engine the oil is being pumped to the top of the engine and through all of the oil passages. That is why you can not see oil in the inspection window while it is running. Make sure when you are checking the oil through the inspection window the vehicle is on a level surface and you have allowed enough time for all of the oil to drain back to the crankcase.

I had a sticking throttle cable as i turn it would idle up

Poor compression I expect. Fit new rings and rebore the barrell to bring the compression up again. Using easy start or eather will damage the piston and seats.

1st warm up the engine or

undo anti clockwise.

GET A DIGITAL ONE (FOR MOTORCYCLE & BICYCLE)
THE READ-OUT CAN BE CLAMPED TO THE HANDLEBARS & THE WIRE FROM IT GOES DOWN THE FORK LEG TO A PICK-UP UNIT THAT U STICK TO THE INSIDE OF THE FORK LEG AT THE NEAREST POINT TO THE MAGNET WHICH GETS STUCK TO THE WHEEL (USUALLY THE RIM)
GET ONE THAT ILLUMINATES. SOME HAVE TRIP & OTHER FEATURES
I HOPE THIS HELPS, IF SO, PLEASE MARK AS USEFUL
RIDE SAFE
BIKE-DOC

32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of 2 stroke engine oil per gallon of gas.

Try a new plug anyway....
If your spark is a fat blue one, that is good.
Make sure the air filter is clean.
If you can, pour a cap full of fuel into the spark plug hole, to see if it will fire. If it does, you have a fuel issue.
Also, do a compression test, to verify how the rings are.

Great bike...
I race hare scrambles, and they are tough on a bike, this is what I do yearly, sometimes two to three times.
Completely disassemble swing arm and clean and re-grease.
Same with the steering head bearings.
I remove all wheel bearings, clean and re-grease.
(I remove the outer seal of the bearings and pump in fresh grease, re-install the seal)
Disassemble, clean the brake levers, throttle assembly, and clutch lever.
(Basically everything on the bike that pivots)
I refresh fork oil and shock oil and nitrogen yearly if raced.
You can freshen up the top end of the engine, unless you are happy with the performance.

Make your life easy, purchase an impact driver. This tool will allow you to remove stubborn screws, bolts and nuts with just the strike of a hammer. When re-assembling the engine, the driver will let you put the screws on tight. Mine is 45 years old and just as good as new. It is the most used tool in my shop.

If unable to get a driver, put the bike in first gear and have someone step on the rear brake pedal. Could you take a moment to rate my answer? Thanks!

spark plug is too hot for the bike , change for a cooler one .
flotter in the carbi may be stuck or needle in the carbi may be dirty or wrongly set .
the bike could starve for full at high revs

unburnt oil will cause this issue that you have, on my old wr250 this was the case, get the carb mixture set properly for the oil gas and air. clean the piston and the spark from carbon deposits. do this and you will even get more power out of your 2 stroker.

over heating stator or power pack.