2003 kawasaki KX 125 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Air filter clean, hold throttle wide open while kicking...at least 100 psi. 130-150 is good.

you need to adjust clutch clearance or else you need to replace clutch lining.

Welcome to the world of 2-strokes. It is normal to have some oil residue build up each time it runs. You have to wipe them up frequently. You could have the dealer check to be sure the oil injector is set correctly but DO NOT attempt any adjustments of your own. Always use the highest quality 2-stroke oil you can afford. Enjoy riding like a bat-out-of-hell...

Contact your kwaka dealer and aske for advice .

If it reved realy high then quit then it sounds like you blew up the engine (sucked in air ran lean and seized up) Pull the spark plug and see if there is aluminum on the plug if there is you melted the piston.

2 Stroke tanny oil your local bike shop will have in stock
Mark
C.C. Motorsport

Well if it looks like that picture, it's a dirt bike, not legal for street use. If it has head lights and blinkers, it is a dual sport. The engine size is stamped into the head. Like .125 liter or .250 liter. I think the dual sport is a KZ and the dirt bike is KX. That is Kawasaki.

I guessing by the year of the motorcycle, the engine has siezed from sitting rather that an abrupt malfunction. One possible way is to use a product called Areokroil from Kano Labratories. ( http://www.kanolabs.com/ ) If you can remove the spark plugs, try pouring an ounce or two in through the plug hole into each cylinder. Even better if you can remove the heads. let that sit at least overnight or more. Depending on the severity of the siezure, it could take awhile. Then leaving the plugs out, try turning over the engine slowly by kick starter if you have that option. Do not try electric starting as that will probably cause more damage. Good luck.

The idle circuit is still plugged up or it would not be giving you this problem. Remove the carb and dis-assemble it then soak the parts in denatured alcohol for 30 minutes. Then use a spray carb cleaner to finish the job. Spray into all the little holes in the carb body. Especially spray into the air screw and throttle screw holes. Reassemble the carb and LIGHTLY seat the air and throttle screws then turn each of them one and one half turns outward. This is the factory setting. Before putting the slide back into the top of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower on the needle. This will richen the low end fuel mix. Install a new spark plug and clean the air filter. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

hi,this might help,check the fuel filter,the filter on most bikes which is regularly overlooked is inside the fuel tank and is part of the fuel tap assembly,or it could be a small bowl on the bottom of the fuel tap assembly,also check that the fuel line is straight and has no kinks or folds in it,it sounds like a fuel supply problem so i would be checking the filters first,hope this helps...cheers ian

Hello,the problem came from the carburretor ,it needs to be clean,and see what it gives,hope that clear your mind and solve it

first time i heard of a piston without a mark, is this an OEM, if it is after market, consult the manual, else have it replaced, same goes with OEM.

There is no actual oil filter on your bike. The oil gets dirty and you change it. That is the only "filter" for the oil in your bike.

There is nothing you can mess up inside the cover.

i think its probly an 01 but call dealership and give them the 10th diget of your vin (this will be a letter) and they will be able to tell you for sure

The reed valve assembly should hold solvent withot leaking. Remove for test. Disassemble and clean reeds and reed seat. Perfect seal is very important.

Good luck,
Techjoel

same way you do on a car. remove the wheel, take the caliper unit off and replace the pads.

1) Put the bike on a milk crate or a bike jack stand
2) Take off the front wheel, the axle comes off like a large bolt
3) Remove the caliper unit from the disc, probably allen wrenches will be needed or at least metric wrenches
4) The pads will come out with a little of force and removing the retaining springs. Take note of how the springs are attached to the pads and caliper unit. You will have to re-assemble the caliper and pads and springs
5) use a C-Clamp to push the piston back into the caliper unit. After you get the caliper unit off of the bike you'll see what I mean. Probably a 6" c-Clamp will work
6) Check the disc for wear and tear. You might have to replace the disc.
7) put new pads into the caliper and attach springs. Take your time, putting the pad springs back on may be tougher than you think.
8) reassemble the caliper and the disc.
9) Put the wheel back on and squeeze the brake. Remember you used a c-clamp to push the piston all the way back into the caliper unit. Squeezing the brake will force the piston out and push the pads against the disc.
10) Time to TEST DRIVE the bike. Go slow and check for wobble or uneven braking. If needed retighten the caliper unit, just don't over tighten the caliper and strip the threads.

Hope this helps....

Why? What compression reading you got?

Generally less tha 90 it wont run. 140psi would be good. Over 160 would be too much.

If you havent shut the fuel off and the carb leaks then it likely that the crankcase is full of fuel and will give a false compression reading.
The most obvious way to check is to remove the expansion chamber, shake it around and listen for fluid in it. If it has fluid in it- IT GASOLINE- it will burn/ ignite!!!!! Be very careful and dispose of properly
Once you are sure the crankcase isnt full and the carb is right then check compression

best to open lower crank case and get it all out !!!!! I personally learned this one with a Ski-Doo motor

There are only three things that your bike needs to start, Spark, Compression and Fuel, if you say that it has spark and compression then the problem has to be fuel, Make sure that there are no blockages in the line from the tank to the carb, if that is not the problem then you will have to pull the carb and clean out all the ports. I disassemble them as much as possible and empty a can of carb cleaner into a clean coffee can let it soak overnight and then blow out all passages with compressed air and reassemble. You should also pull off your reed cage and check to make sure that your reeds aren't cracked or broke. If your bike was runninng before and you give your carb a good cleaning and the reeds look good and it still doesn't work then you are going to have to look at the other two requirements, your spark should be a bright blue, if not try a spark plug first (you may want to try that before the carb cleaning) next you should get a compression tester and check the compression to make sure it is high enough. Your bike might feel like it has lots of compression but it might be low enough to make it hard to start.