2003 kawasaki KX 125 - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if your talking about the kick starter lever it sounds like your rebound spring broke on the gear. and you will have to remove the cover to get to it to replace it.

i believe that model quad, like many smaller kid quads, have an electronic choke. sometimes the electronic choke valve stick. try unplugging it from the connector or tapping on the side of the carb with the back of a screwdriver, that sometimes work. or you might just have to replace the choke.

This is a common problem that happens with all 2 strokes, maybe the oil pump is not set up to the throttle or is malfunctioning

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

Hi and welcome to the site,

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Good luck and thank you for asking.

Check every electrical connector for corrosion / oxidation or loose fittings also check your engine stop switch.

Unfortunately it is never possible to find out the cause, it is not very common, but does happen. For this reason when doing work on the piston it is recommended to always use new circlips.
Even then it may be the installers fault, or a damaged clip, or the groove in the piston not machined exactly.

If there is a hose coming from the radiator fill neck to this tank its a coolant reserve tank.

could be a jettng problem or a sign your rings are starting to wear out. have you noticed any loss in power? try running a compression test.

first drain the carby, then set your air mixture screw 2 turns out, from the fully turned in position. The starting proceedure is as follows, when the engine is COLD, turn on fuel, pull on the choke fully, and kick the engine over. DO NOT use any throttle, when the engine is cold, and the choke is on. Remember Choke on, NO throttle.
When warm, no choke, and a little throttle when kicking.

Hello you have a
1. fuel starvation problem clogged carburetor jets.(clean the carb)
2. Intake leak carb joint/intake manifold.( start your motor get it to idle best you can spray wd40 around the carb joint if the rpms change you have a leak replace the carb joint or gasket/o-ring as needed.
3. crankshaft main seal magneto side leaking or worn main bearing.
check end play on the magneto side remove the cover plate firmly grab the end of the shaft with up an down motion if you can feel it move replace the main bearings and seals.
These are problem that will cause your motor to run lean and hesitate.
Hope this helps you with your problem

sounds something like the engine may have seized, tho sorry no other ideas.

I can give you reccomended Team Green setting for your weight, dirt bike setting are usually based on weight,

it's your intake valves honda uses a titanium intake valves while it saves .999 pounds it IS there down fall. The valves start to recesse into the head, which we know will cause the clearance to get smaller. A.P.E offers a great fix, its a rebuilt head port and polished to stage 2 specs. with stainless steal valves springs and new keepers. While your there it'll give you a chance to see how things are doing on the top end of your motor, pull your cylinder and check your rod the gasket kit comes with a base gasket too so take your and build it right. this is also a great to replace your rings and hone the cylinder or better yet put a bore job on the to do list.
Fix it right, Ride it fast!
Mark
C.C. Motorsports

there is not much to adjust. Leave the float levels alone, they are set at the factory, leave alone the sliding needle adjustment too. All you have left, is an idle screw, and an air screw. adjustment for the air screw, turn all the way in till it stops, then 2 full turns out. mabey more , mabey less, listen for best idle. Then adjust your idle speed, thats it.

The seal is part of the tapered rollor bearing, the seal should not be seperate, you might be able to remove it from the bearing but it technically is one piece, the part number that you should have replaced it with is 92116-1076, the number that you posted up is correct.

32:1

sounds like your idle jet is clogged, remove your carb and clean idle jet cause it won't idle or kick start without it...good luck to you friend...Tim

usually about 32to1 but i would recomend going a little richer and using a good resisted plug

Stock fork seals will work but if I were you, I woudl take it to someone who has the correct tools take your fork seals out without gouging the fork leg. If your seals are leaking then chances are you're also low in fluid. Your fluid level is what decides how hard or soft your front end is (In addition to fork spring rate).

have the fuel **** on unhook the line into the carb make sure fuel pures. if it does reconnect. next there is a drain screw on the bottom of the carb unscrew it a few times make sure fuel flows from the bottom of the carb if it don't check your needle and seat make sure the ruber on the end of the needle isn't swelled because of the ethenol they are using in the gas now. if you have fuel. try holding your hand over the back of the carb to plug it off completely and have someone try to kick start it a couple of times. if working corectly your should get fuel on your hands and might crank. if so there is a cloged fuel mixture port etc hope this helps,