2003 kawasaki KX 125 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It just need new oil seals, but make sure that you don't put to much oil
back in, or it will be very hard and could blow the seals again,
hope this helps

Unhook both ends of your clutch cable if it is binding at all replace it. If the lever on the motor does not go all the way back to riding position (disengaged clutch position). You may have to disassemble the motor to check for a broken spring or damaged clutch engagement mechanism.

.7 liters or 700 cc's

The KX 125 is a two stroke and is lubricated with the fuel.
A good quality synthetic two stroke oil will be best in my view as the engine is used by many manufacturers including Aprillia in their RS 125 recomend it. Halfords do a good few types. It has a pump that meters the oil into the float chamber of the carbourettor, very cunning! Unlike my 1956 Lambretta LD150 that used 18 to 1 petrol to oil mixed as it goes into the fuel tank. Yours uses about 45 to 1.

I would use a motorcycle gearbox oil weight 10/40 Hope this is what you needed.
Deke

if your still fouling plugs then you still need to go with smaller # on main jet...are you spooging allot out of pipe and muffler? then your to rich still,smaller jet size!!!! 32:1 is a good mix ratio

if your fouling plugs then either your fuel/mix ratio is off ( should be mixing 32:1 ) (or) your bike is running to rich( getting to much fuel to engine) which means you need to rejet the carb....example:( if you have a #50 jet,you need a #48 or 49) to install a new jet, #1.)remove carb,#2.)remove the bowl(4-screws),you will see the jet and #3.)unscrew jet and replace with smaller # ( number is stamped on the jet.) you can get jets from local motorcycle dealer( but they will probably have to order them). or go online to bikebandit.com enter your bikes year,make,model,ect.and just order from them........

i hope you are talking about tire tubes, check the rim for rough spots, aluminium rims will corrode have sharp edges, use emery cloth on the inside of the rim to remove any burrs, check the spoke cover rubber boot for tears , and inflate the tire to max pressure , it may be slipping on the rim and tearing the valve stem

Do you have a rim strip to protect the tube from the spokes? Is the rim damaged from tire irons or a sharp burr where the tube might contact it? A broken or missing spoke? Did you take a rag and wipe the inside of the tire to look for sharp objects? After the rag did you feel around with your hand ? You do have to be very careful not to fold over the tube or pinch the tube with the tire iron, the tire bead, or the rim lock.Maybe you are running to low of an air pressure for the type of riding (jumping) you are doing. Maybe the brand of tube you are using is too light of a duty for off road riding.You may want to check into the heavy duty tubes available for off road use.

sounds like you need to rejet the carb..

u might need a new top end

muffler bearings definately

anytime u deal with bottom end work it takes precision-did u open case up?

hopefully u put the rite size rings n piston in--du u hav proper libricant in case-what that model calls for--how is the cam chain tensioner @ correct value--du u have a shop book like clymer etc

it is for the throttle position for the cdi unit to know if the throttle is open or closed and by how much.

Take off fuel tap and check if worn and If there is a diaphram check it for holes.

check the carb float and the float settings. also clean all the jets out. check the joke aint sticking. check the condition of the air filter for rips or holes as that would explain why the bike is bogging when reved

if you have all the electrics for the newer motor a would run the bike with them

when your putting the barrel back onto the piston start lowering it down. when you lower so far swing the power rod into posistion cause you cant fit it after you have reinstalled the barrel. hope this helps just fitted a new piston and rings on ma kx80 and a had the same problem lol

CLEAN OUT YOUR SILENER