Top 20 2003 kawasaki KX 125 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Yes I do believe those are exactly the same

It sounds as if you have rebuilt the engine without torqueing the head bolts. Although, it could be that the cylinder base gasket has been torn during the rebuild. Try to re-tighten the head bolts to the correct settings first. Good luck.

I USE AMSOIL SYNTHETIC 10W40. High performance engine and transmission fluid.

Hi,would start by taking the head off and have a look at the top of the piston, if it hasn't got a hole in it.. good....the bottom of your plug may have broken off, this may have damaged your rings so you'll have no compression. You'll have too strip it down further. When you're sorted check your oil/petrol mix and your air screw setting then check your plug regularly for discolouring or oiling up. Go for it, and be methodical.

Put your bike on a stand so there's no weight on the front wheel. Take the whole cap off the top of your fork, on the underside of the broken screw as centrally as possible centre punch a mark, then using a very small drill gently drill through, increasing the drill size gradually, the drill action and the heat generated may loosen the screw if not a bit of persuasion with an impact screwdriver set clockwise should do the job.

Hi, easy job, if your bike is waer cooled, you dont say how old it is the old bikes were air cooled, undo all the water pipes attached to the r/h case all the water will escape, you can leave the oil inside the gearbox, if you lay the bike on its left hand side, lift the engine and block it up to make sure gear lever is not resting on the ground, as this will disengage when you remove the clutch cover on the r/hand side, undo all the fixing screws from the cover remove kickstart lever, tap the cover gently to loosen the cover and remove when loose, if the case will not come off check further for screws, sometimes hide inside water pumps etc, once you are ready to remove the cover, keep the kickstart shaft pushed inermost so that it stays located within the engine, once ready fully observe the location of spring mountins within the engine and replace the spring

hiyasounds like your clutch cable is to tight and not releasing the clutch plates enough try slacking it off a bit and that should cure the problem hope this helpsJohn

1- Remove nuts, clutch spring plate and springs 2 Feed a rolled-up rag between both primary reduction gears to prevent the clutch from turning, then remove the clutch hub nut. 3- Remove clutch hub, pressure plate, steel plates and friction plates. 4- Remove clutch housing. 5- Slide clutch bushing and thrust water from shaft. Take care to note how thrust washer is installed.

Just under the handlebar that when the vin code is on the right hand side

Check your fuel filter, sounds like it maybe clogged or needs replaced, can use a generic gas filter to fix or troubleshoot your problem. Rick

Specialist job, not saying you cant do it, but it involves you removing all the old wire, measuring the length and diamiter of the wire, and replacing the same amount exactly, to obtain the correct resistance, not allowing the wire to go to earth at any point during the rewinding , you have nothing to loose just time and patiance, maypay off dividends

there is a checl bolt on the rh side it doesn't hold anyhting one and has a copper waher. sorry i tried to get the picture on here but it's to big

oil Capacity kx125 - 652 + or - 4ml (22.04 + or - 0.14 US oz.)

Sounds like too much fuel. To go from the pilot of 27.5 (assuming this was stock) to a 45 is a huge jump. Put the 27.5 in and see if the bog goes away. I would back the screw out 1 1/2 also, and put the clip in the center.
The pilot affects idle to 1/4 throttle.
The needle and clip affect 1/4 to 3/4
The main is more like 1/2 to full
****make sure your air filter is clean...
(Irratic idle may be due to an air leak)

Is it possible that rings were broken during the assembly?

on rear axle shaft (both sides) are adjustment screws (bolts) make sure they are exactky the same when you are done

Remove the right side cover and check the operation of the side case clutch lever by looking at it from the inside. If it is operating freely and the cam on the arm that pushes the clutch release pin is not worn out, the problem would be the fiber friction clutch plates. Did someone use synthetic oil in the gear box? Oil with "Special" lubricants? These can shrink the cork on the plates and cause the clutch to slip. Some synthetics can swell the cork and cause the clutch to grab and not disengage. If swelling or shrinkage of the plates has happened then the repair is to install new plates. Potentially, grooves may be worn in the inner and/or outer clutch hubs. This would prevent proper operation of the clutch. The repair there is new clutch inner hub (if worn), or clutch outer hub as needed. A worn needle bearing could also be the cause if the clutch will not disengage. Please post a reply if any more info is needed. An exploded view of your clutch can be seen at the website below. Please take a moment and rate my answer.
www.babbittsonline.com

check fuel line.... from tank to carburator.... probably your having fuel problem, there might have some foriegn object that got stock up... check out the main jet....

If the bike hasn't been ridden for a while, select top gear, (engine off) and with the clutch pulled in rock the bike back and forth. That may free the clutch.

to seat the screw it goes all the way in but only 2.5 turns out

adjust more if needed

good luck.