20 Most Recent 2002 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi

Yes you can do without it .However automatic Compression Release (ACR) valves reduce the strain of starting your high performance motor by reducing cylinder compression - automatically! The engine is easier to turn over resulting in less wear on your starter and battery. After start, the ACR valves close to restore full compression.

Please check the bellow link to have an in-depth knowledge related to your query:-

http://www.dansmc.com/starter.htm

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:3dyZ9Vq3qSkJ:www.sscycle.com/uploads/instructions/51-1065.pdf+how+to+assemble+a+bike+with+manual+compression+release+unit&hl=en&gl=in&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESg1A2j_YTchScQdyyCFWzpihea7sOb11AayZaneWXJVj4AeRLG85Cf5MMnoaf1ubw-okj59jdnlKl7c921qyM6yIwf0p-CGBnh0v3Ai6fENfYJPoRN1Dgel1VxkfdCH3ZWUPswq&sig=AHIEtbT3i2Qk_ceYUe2j6mdjNXI6NcJ3Zg

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I'm assuming you are using a good quality gasoline, without any impurities in it. In that case it sputters because the advance timing in the ignition is bad at higher revs: one of the sensors from the EFI is bad, most likely the one on the throttle or the air intake pressure one. The only way to know for sure is to have the system checked with an code reader - a special one is needed, so go to a bike shop, preferably one that is certified for Kawasaki's.

It does not look like you have hydraulic lifters, but there are separate adjusters between the valves and the rockers. Depending on the amount/frequency of the clatter you either have bad valve lash adjusters or you have bad cam chain tensioners that are not holding the adjuster in place. The valve lash adjusters would cause a high pitched tick or click. If several are bad it sounds like marbles bouncing and rattling around inside your motor. A simple check of the valve tolerances should tell if the lash adjusters are bad.
If the cam tensioners go bad then you get a clatter sound . Two bad tensioners can be quite noisy. If the tensioners are manually adjusted you may be able to turn the motor to top dead center on the combustion stroke, loosen the tensioner bolt and retighten the bolt to get rid of the clatter sound on that cylinder. If it is a self adjusting cam chain tensioner you will have to replace the tensioner to stop the adjuster from clattering.

Use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.

This really sounds like two different issues but could be related. The oil light sounds like the sending unit may be out and this usaully prevents the bike from starting but because you are able to push start it you might want to check the button switch or solenoid for either of those being bad. The ignition switch being bad may but I doubt it, cause the oil light to come on. I really believe you have two problems here. If you dont have a service manual for this bike you can find them cheap online for instant download at site such as tradebits.com. I hope I was able to help you.

this sounds like a moister problem. check all connections in the 30amp circuit. apply di-electrical grease to all connections

Don't even try to fix the bike. Getting parts will be a problem and doing the actual repairs would be a big hassle for you. Just take it to a dealer or two and see what bike you can get on a trade-in. I suggest a 250cc to 450cc four stroke with not more than two cylinders. Get a used one that is only 3 to 4 years old. Be sure the dealer has gone through the bike and it is mechanically sound.

I have same bike with long shot vance and hines pipes. My bike is 2 years older and has carburetor. I get 35 mpg city and about 40mpg hwy.

That emblem is just held on with two sided tape, you should be able to just pry it off, you might thnk about using a hair dryer to heat it up and that will loosen the glue on the tape, then I would get some new tape before you re-install it !

If you don't mind leaving me a feedback, I'm trying to get established here, Thank you ver much !

did you bleed all the air out of the lines

Need to buy a repair manual from Haynes/Clymers as not too many are willing to part with a valuable item

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, have the battery externally charged and/or load tested. This is just to verify its current output capacity not just the voltage.

Offhand, the "...loud buzzing sound..." indicates that the starter relay is cycling on/off on a fast rate. This could only be brought about by the supply voltage going up & down. Possibilities then are:

• loose, corroded battery terminals / connectors & other electricals including the engine and frame ground straps.(most likely);
• faulty starter relay (likely);
• faulty charging system (likely);
• weak or about to fail battery (least likely).

Postback results / updates on above checks.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

is your bike fuel injected? take a look at vance and hines web site as well a the power comander web site as the have fairley easy to install ecms to give you more smoother running bike. if its carborated may need to clean and adust carb or rejet

I believe on this model, that you have to remove the instrument display that is on the tank. There should be one 8mm bolt in the center of the chrome housing. Remove the bolt, then push the housing forward towards the handlebars. After removing the housing, you should see a small reservior with what looks like a radiator cap on it. There should also be an overflow tank located bottom center of the bike. It should have a sight glass on it to see the fluid level.

sounds to me you knott out the recketfier ... when you blow the fuse at also sent to much power to it. but also sounds like you have a bad ground wire.

It makes a great desktop image.

2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi

2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi

• 2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi
.
What immediately distinguishes the Kawasaki Vulcan™ 1500 Classic Fi cruiser from the rest of the well-populated class is that it has the look, feel and sound of a mid-1950s motorcycle. But Kawasaki matches the "look" with a digitally controlled fuel-injection system and high-tech features that result in modern performance. Indeed, response to the Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi was so positive that upon its introduction, Motorcycle Tour & Cruiser magazine dubbed the bike "Cruiser of the Year."
The big 90 cubic-inch V-twin engine in the Classic Fi pumps out plenty of torque and power with high-compression pistons and cam timing taken from the original Vulcan 1500. A Mitsubishi digital fuel-injection system feeds each cylinder a high-octane fuel mixture through twin 36mm throttle bodies. A separate intake tract for each throttle body provides smooth engine operation. The tip of each injector contains four nozzles, with two of those aimed at each intake valve.
Two different systems automatically and accurately control the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders. A 16-bit electronic control unit (ECU) uses readings from sensors that monitor engine coolant temperature, intake air temperature, atmospheric pressure, intake air pressure and throttle position to adjust the amount of fuel injected. The overall result is excellent engine response and power with increased fuel efficiency. The ECU also has a special pin that allows technicians to check the fuel-injection system if needed.
There are four valves per cylinder actuated by single overhead cams. Two valve springs are used on all valves to help ensure tight valve closure, while hydraulic valve lash adjusters automatically maintain valve clearance for smooth engine performance, reduced noise and no maintenance. Automatic cam chain tensioners keep cam timing accurate and provide greater reliability with no upkeep. The right-side crankcase and clutch cover are designed to make it easy to check the engine’s oil level and to perform regularly scheduled maintenance.
The engine produces 85 foot-pounds of torque at 2,500 rpm so that a crack of the throttle punches out smooth acceleration. A gear-driven engine counterbalancer and rubber engine mounts reduce handlebar and floorboard vibration, yet the engine retains its distinctive V-twin rumble.
A long, low-slung chassis provides the classic cruiser look. The Classic Fi’s floorboards are positioned to put the rider in an upright and comfortable position. Also, the brake pedal is designed to make it easier to apply the dual-piston-caliper-equipped brake. Other conveniences include wide, five-way adjustable brake and clutch levers for added rider comfort and self-canceling turn signals for easier use.
An electronic speedometer eliminates the traditional wheel-driven mechanism and its speedometer cable for a cleaner look. The speedometer face atop the five-gallon gas tank features an LED display for the odometer and tripmeter, as well as a clock.
Because customizing is integral to the whole cruiser experience, Kawasaki offers a full line of FIRE & STEEL™ accessories for the Classic Fi. Among the choices are numerous chrome pieces, leather bags and trim, backrests, lights, racks and windshields.
With its exceptional performance, nostalgic looks and high-tech enhancements, the Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi is just the ticket for the high-minded cruiser enthusiast.




Kawasaki Vulcan® Cruisers

By introducing the KZ900 LTD in 1976, Kawasaki was an early metric leader in what has become today’s cruiser movement. When the Vulcan® 750 cruiser debuted 10 years later, it was Kawasaki’s first V-twin-powered cruiser and featured high-tech items such as liquid cooling, double overhead cams, shaft drive, dual disc front brakes and mag wheels. In 1995, Kawasaki unveiled the Vulcan™ 800, one of the industry’s first V-twin metric cruisers to feature modern cruiser styling.
For 2002, the Kawasaki cruiser lineup is 10 models strong and ranges from the entry-level Eliminator® 125 to the brand-new Vulcan 1500 Mean Streak. The venerable Vulcan 500 LTD, Vulcan 750 and Vulcan 800 models retain the stylish characteristics that have made them popular, and are now available in new hues.
Also available this year are the Vulcan Classic and Drifter™ models. The Classics include the 800, 1500 and 1500 Fi, and provide a choice in both displacement and technological advancement without sacrificing style. Similarly, the Drifter 800 and Drifter 1500 provide a stylish retro appearance, but in both the mid- and heavyweight-cruiser genres.
In addition to the bikes, a key element to the cruiser lifestyle is customizing the motorcycle to fit individual design tastes and performance needs. Fortunately, Kawasaki offers its own extensive line of genuine Fire & Steel™ accessories. Motorcyclists can choose from literally hundreds of parts to customize their Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycles, and in doing so, make their own bold statement. Customers can find Fire & Steel accessories at their local Kawasaki dealer or shop online at buykawasaki.com.

well i would try the switch and see and if that doesnt work then check the wiring for a loose connection or ground or maybe it could be as ez as checking the light bulb it might be loose in the socket

not usually,the valves are located on top of the engine,inside a small compartment,you will need to remove the gas tank.

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

spray with wd40 let sit 5 min and try if still froze try again