2001 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It would be better to come off the battery through a fuse and relay, the relay can then be activated off the high beam circuit

Temperature sensing switch could be the problem, or a broken wire between fan and the switch. OR it could be that the fan motor is dead. If you have a volt meter, try reading voltage at the switch, and the fan motor, (once the engine is warm enough the fan should be on)

The bike is a "Meanstreak" If all you have is the engine you would probably be better taking the engine and any other cycle parts you like to a Frame builder.

its running lean(not getting enough fuel) the carb needs to be pulled apart and cleaned.

If the bike is not fuel injected then why does it have a throttle positioning sensor? It may run but not correctly.

This is from bikebandit.com. is this what you are looking for?

Surely, if your question was not answered in enough detail for you to carry out the repair, or be satisfied with it, don't pay it. I don't get paid if my client isn't happy with my answer, even if it came straight from the service manual!

It holds about 3.5 quarts http://www.lubedealer.com/laststopsynthetics/

Any oil that is JASO MA certified for motorcycle use. 10w-40 for cool climate 20w-50 for warm climate. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label it will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil will help your engine run cooler and shift easier in hot weather.

Unscrew the sparks, place them in their pipes, touch the spark on a metal surface with negative polarity, ( like the engine block) and hit the starter. If the spark well, then your problem is on fuel.
Remember, that petrol engines always require three things:

AIR, FUEL and SPARK. If any of them is missing, you'll never get it working.

check your compression. you might have a problem with the valves. Other thing it might be is a jet or float in one of the carbs is stuck. hope this helps

This fan runs of a heat sensor..The sensor may be gon......Trace the wires and see if their is power from the sensor when it gets worm and also powet to the sensor........Power to the sensor is good but power not showing from the sensor after temp light or gauge shows time to cool means the sensor is unservicable..Hope this helps.

I took it in to the dealer shop....I want my money back!

Hi.

Please, help yourself using the full repair and part manual. There you will find AIT sensor and wiring pictures.

Manual is downloadable for free from this page.

hi buddy copy this link intop the bar above you dont need to flush it will drain with the coolant http://www.duckweedmafia.com/access/?q=node/25

you have to have at least 9 volts to turn the head light relay on it is usually a regulator rectifier or bad stator that causes this, the relay is part of the fuse box assy .

You may be having detonation. Switch to premium gas. Do not use gas with Ethanol. Change to a new spark plug > NGK DP8EA-9. Run through a couple of tanks of gas and see if the problem has gone away.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.