20 Most Recent 2001 kawasaki ZX-12R Questions & Answers


Hi, Yonboi13 it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/40610-fi-light.html
Kawasaki Fault Codes
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2018


Hi, Mag_andrews and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2018


Hi, Gsf1200s before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2018


Hi, Robert and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Service Manual
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2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2018


Hi, Marlon you may have squeaked your top end this is commonly known as "HEAT SEIZE" the piston heats up expands and becomes extremely tight in the cylinder bore and usually occurs mainly on 2 cycle engines right after a fresh top end rebuild, but it can also happen to brand new motorcycles, these are rare instances due to better quality control and education. Overheating failures that cause pistons to seize are many and each one should be carefully diagnosed to prevent future repeat offenders and the usual suspects are:
1. Lack of lubrication due to low or no oil.
2. Among the causes of lack of cylinder, lubrication is clogging of lubricator by dirt or waste, obstruction in oil pipes/lines, leaky check valves, leaky pump packing, broken oil pipe/line, oil too cold to feed.
3. Wrong type of oil used in premix or oil tank.
4. Improper premix ratio you should start with 32:1 as a baseline.
5. New rebuild piston to cylinder tolerances set up too tight.
6. Failure to follow proper break-in procedures with a 16:1 premix ratio.
7. Loose fasteners causing intake, base, or head gaskets to leak or blown crankshaft seal, failure caused by age, overheating or walking.
8. Holes in the intake manifold bent or warped intake flange or reed cage any stray air coming into a cylinder will cause a super lean condition.
9. Improper assembly of reed valve gaskets.
10. Insufficient warm-up time for temperature conditions before WOT.
11. Broken, pinched or cracked fuel line.
12. Carburetor fuel passages clogged or restricted from stale fuel varnish, ethanol sludge, dirt, rust, or fuel level in float bowl too low.
13. Main jet size too small or partially clogged
14. Air filter improperly installed, missing or not sealing.
15. Faulty or improperly adjusted oil pump and or cable.
16. Failure to bleed oil pump after a rebuild/replacement or running oil tank dry.
17. Engine coolant level too low, too old, or improper mixture ratio.
18. Radiator clogged, fins damaged, or faulty cap.
19. No liquid circulation due to failed oil or water pump.
20. Cavitation due to air in oil or coolant system.
21. Water and oil mix due to a blown head gasket.
22. Timing retarded due to faulty CKP sensor or CDI.
23. Improper spark plug heat range (too hot) and or gap.
24. Excessive engine load, brakes dragging, clutch slipping, transmission lubricant level too low or viscosity to high.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2018


Hi, Alif_m for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/40610-fi-light.html
Kawasaki Fault Codes
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2018


Hi, Otacteofan and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
13. Faulty auto choke or wiring connection.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/45849-01-zx-12r-rough-idle.html http://www.zxforums.com/forums/mechanical-technical/40220-2000-zx6r-wont-stay-running-stuck.html
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 12R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2018


Hi, Snowboard117 and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Air fuel mixture screws not properly adjusted.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Leaking accelerator pump.
5. Loose low-speed jet.
6. Plugged low-speed jet.
7. Contaminated or plugged low-speed circuit.
8. Enrichner valve/choke not seated or leaking.
9. Multi carburetors out of sync and need to be balanced.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on May 28, 2017


check the fuse, check to see if there is power to the light. check the light plug on the back, they do come loose if you ride like I do.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 22, 2014


blub could be blown==light switch could be bad,sometime it will
calcium over from the weather== may also have a bad headlight relay.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 22, 2014


alot of bikes have a small window by the crank case to veiw the oil.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2013


If you are not getting spark, get a voltage tester, text power from stator to coils. You can also use an ohmmeter to test if the on off switch or kill switch if applicable on this model is bad.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Jun 04, 2012


check the wiring between your kill switch the starter button and the wiring harness, there may be chafing causing a grounding or cross connection to the starter button

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on May 19, 2012


Check your stand safety switch. Or your gear sensor. One of these is guilty!!!

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Aug 18, 2010


most oils will work, you want about 10W30 weight. you will either have a dipstick on the filler cap, or most kawasakis have a sight glass on the engine case with level markers. you will probly need to remove the fairing pannels to do this job. the coolant should have a small reserve bottle with level markers on it, if not open radiator cap with engine cold, and it should be full.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on May 24, 2010


Does it look like a factory wire, or could it be from a battery tender that some one had on there? If the wire doesn't reach anything with a screw hole that fits it, I wouldn't worry about it. Hope this helps.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on May 19, 2010


To my knowledge,there isn;t a relay or fuse for seperate high low beam,either the bulbs are blown on the high side or the high low beam switch is defective..

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 07, 2010


21,000 is a lot of miles for a motorcycle spark plug. Your valves might need adjusted - I don't know if Kawasaki has solids or hydraulic in this model. Your carbs might be in need of adjustment. When was your last tune up? If you don't remember, it is time for a little TLC for the bike, my friend. Your motorcycle is 9 years old now ... it is time for service.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Jan 04, 2010


Check for an over flow tube connected to the battery, this could be what is holding it in. hope this helps.


JP

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 24, 2009


measure voltage going to solenoid for power when you hit the start switch.... you should hear a small clicking sound coming from the solenoid .if no clicking... the solenoid might be going bad. maybe the starter ground wire is broken internally or its possible that you bought a defective starter...you might want to take the starter to a dealer or repair shop to insure it in good working order. the battery you have should be up to a minimum 12.6v 12v wont be enough! 13v is perfect so you"ll have to get it trickle charged up. Oh and before we go on any further, do you know how to push start a motorcycle?have you tried this yet maybe the engine cylinders is seized up from no oil lubrication...get back to me on this you need to know if the engine is seized-up! put in neutral run real fast along side of the bike then pull yourself on top of bike ,pull in the clutch push down into first gear the pop the clutch while you sit down on the seat at the same time. MAKE sure the key is on when you do this and also make sure the kill switch is set to run. if it starts then this is probably your problem ....not getting enough oil to keep it form seizing up...so turn off the engine quick...don't want any further damage. let me know how it turns out.

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 04, 2009

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