Top 20 2001 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi
Mine at 230 km passs reserve, then alarmed me close to 200 km. A 100 km already know that almost half a tank is gone.
Alex

Most likely your slow (idle, pilot, whichever name you prefer) jets are plugged up in your carburetors. If the bike was stored improperly, or old/dirty gas was in the tank, these jets get plugged up pretty easily. One if not all are probably affected. The slow jet is where your bike pulls gas while it has a closed throttle position. Its the smallest jet in the carbs. When you twist the throttle, the needle (blocking the main jet from being used) opens up and allows gas to pass it and up into the vacuum of your carb and into your engine. If the idle jets are plugged you will usually notice that if you give the bike throttle it will run great in the higher RPM (3000+) but will die and be "glitchy" or boggy when going from no throttle to open throttle. You can try to cheat a carb clean by getting some carb cleaner and spraying that down the carbs, and using seafoam or equivalent to get those jets clean, but its always a better bet to see whats going on inside and clean those things so you get your throttle response back. Goodluck.

Bruno

You will need an impact gun to break it loose, how are you holding the sprocket still, any moving absorbs the torque you apply and stops the breaking loose of the sprocket.

Maybee It's produced in 98 but the first registration was in 99?!

10W40 weight oil

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

Make sure you are getting a solid spark to the plugs - Take out the plugs and leave them sitting on the head, turn over the engine and see if you are getting a strong blue spark. If not, I'd say your CDI unit needs replacing (Capisator Discharge Ignision)

Blowing out? Does that mean they go faulty or do the physically come out of the head? If they come out of the head you are either using an incorrect plug or the sreww thread in the plug is damaged. Damaged thread can be repaired but the head will need to come off. It entails drilling the plug hole bigger. Then a new thread is cut and a helicoil is screwed into the new thread which will return it to the original size. See link : http://www.fastenernetwork.co.uk/cms/site/images/530px-Helicoil_14x1_25.jpg

Just a thought, if you are running ethanol fuel it will lower the bikes idle speed. If you run no ethanol fuel your idle speed will go up. Turn your idle screw to raise the idle . Hopefully , your problem is just that simple.

You need to take the #1 plug out and make sure the piston is at top dead center. Then make sure that the alignment mark on the timing rotor is pointing at the mark on the engine casing. You will want the cams positioned so that the heels of the lobes are down toward the cam followers. The lobes themselves will kind of point up and away from the cylinder head. Also there should be marks on the cams they need to be level with the top of the cylinder head. You will measure 4 valves on 1 of the cylinders and 2 valves each on 2 others. Then rotate 1 full turn and measure the other four. In any case make sure the heel is down towards the follower and the crankshaft timing mark on the timing rotor is lined up with the mark on the engine case..

remove the wiring to the switch and bridge them with a split pin or similar, tur ignition on and see if fan runs, if fan runs sensor is faulty, if fan doesn't run check fuses if fuses ok suspect faulty fan motor

sticking float needle on seat ? carb icing { use 99 octane or addative }

it should , a very smart safety factor incorpotated since the 70s,

Unplug the connectors of the fan and give it directly 12Volt DC supply. ( be careful of the colours so as not to charge it wrong).
If the fan works, then your problem is probably at your temperature sensor. That looks like a spark plug, with two wires on top side, and must be somewhere at the top side of your radiator close to the filling cap. Unscrew it, adjust a multimeter to it and set the meter at Ohm scale anywhere close to 02 - 20 Ohm. Get a lighter, heat the copper side but not so hard, and check if you get indication after a while on your meter. If I'm right, you should't see any sign of current, ( no indication). If you have, put it back as it was, tight it, fill the radiator if you are missing liquid, and then check the rest of the wiring.

BUT first, go to your fuse box, and simply check your fuse...

Good luck.

You can get a factory service manual from the dealer that will have all those specs in it and more, as well as special procedures, part numbers, and tools to use while servicing your bike.

You should be fine with any major brand 20w-50 motorcycle oil.

http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/kawasaki.asp

Go to the above lnk and type in your entire VIN. You have only displayed 13 digits only of 17.

very easy. support the bike so the front wheel is off the ground. Remove, first the brake callipers, then the front mudgaurd, then the wheel. Loosen the clamps that are holding the fork tubes in place, and let them drop down, and remove.

Look for a lock that your key will fit into at the rear under the passenger seat. Lift the passenger seat and look for a cable with a ring on it, look in the center under the mount to the front. Pull the ring and the seat should pop up at the rear and pull the seat back to slide it out of a tab there under the tank.

remove the carb cover buy a carburetor spray run the engine and puff the carb cleaner to ur carburetor intake while revving the engine this will clean the carbons inside without overhauling the carburetor assembly and changing the kits.

There are no key codes on the Ignition, if you can get the ignition switch off then I would contact Lock World and they can make you a key.

Lock World