20 Most Recent 1999 kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

rich ive already tryed and no joy

try running some cemtool b-12 thru the tank and carb

I would think the only accurate way to find that ut is through a main dealership or the DVLA.

According to my service manual for the ZZR1100 98-01 it is carburated and has no pump, it is gravity fed.
The 02 model is fuel injected.

Hi, check the fuse, and the fuel pump relay, if that dose not solve the problem then you will need to dig deeper and start with tracing the wires from the fuel pump back looking for any frays or any spots where the wire could be broken. Sometimes the wire can be broken inside while the shielding is still in tact so you will need to look and feel very carefully. Let me know if this helps. Thanks, Bob

Check your cam chain tensioner. You may have improperly put it back in or forgotten to release it after it was reinsertet, making for timing chain slap.

If you examine the failed plug and check the condition of it. It could be overheating, oil up, carbonize. Not enough information for me to cast an oppinion.
Check your owners manual to see what the plug should run like. If it is overheating, try a harder plug.

It's quite common for fairings to be held together with push in rubber grommets and also slots and tabs between fairing pieces. There is also a newer kind of snap connector which looks and works kind of like velcro except that it snaps open and closed, there is no "half way" on these ones, they are either holding together or not.

I'm not familiar with your model or which fairing you are taking off but I have 2 kawasakis myself from similar era. The belly pan panels need to be split (usually connected together with plastic plugs rather than screws), then rotated to free them up so they slide off from the side panels. My tank side panels had a combination of screw, rubber grommet and "velcro." The trick is to be gentle as it's easy to break the damn things. Only the "velcro" one needs a bit of strength as they really do snap on and off.

Change your oil pressure sender switch. It should fix the problem. If it does not you will need to replace the oil pump.

If the length is the same then yes but what the ride will be like, I wouldn't like to speculate.

CHECK THE TREADS , IF YOU HAVE CROSSED THE TREADS THEN YOU WOULD GOT A BIG PROBLEM

Get the rear wheel off the ground and adjust the chain tension. When checking the tension spin the rear wheel and check that the tension does not go slack or get tighter. If the chain is riding up and down the sprocket teeth then the chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. This is the grinding/clunking noise you are hearing. If the sprockets are worn consider a chain and sprocket set, it can be a less expensive option than buying the parts separately.

I've only dismantled a '96 600 brakes but they looked almost the same as these exploded views. For each piston there are 2 seals. If you look at the seal you will see that they are asymmetrical - looking something like the letter G is cross section. To install them you put the bottom one with the channel down in the groove and the second one with the channel up on the lip - it's there to act mainly as a dust boot, the first one is the actual oil seal.

Are all jets set properly? How about needle and seat? The needle and seat do get warped. Do check you spark plug gap as well.

Have theignition module checked out
That maybe the cause or a bad connection in the connectors to it

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For 93-00 Kawasaki ZZR1100, the oil pressure switch wire is blue/red.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Not really it all depends on what you like. There are many after market ones available. You might use this opportunity to pick up a set that is positioned closer to your riding style. You want to be sure to reuse the counter weights also.
Why did your set break? If not from an accident I would revisit a dealer to determine if they were defective. Hope this helps.

JP

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.