1999 kawasaki VN 800 Vulcan Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Float is not set level or float may have a hole in it

I assume you found the contaminates collected in the bottom of the bell housing. remove the housing again and make sure the float switch is seated properly. If it has stuck in the low position gas will continue to feed and overflow the carb.

Remove two bolts on rear sides. Push down front of seat slightly while lifting rear to disengage bolt from tank fastener at front.

Right hand side rear of engine stamped on the engine block

serious problem you have to split the case in order to get to the forks and shift drun . The shift drum may have a bad tract that guid the shift fork and also will caus sevior shift problems if drum is damaged.

sending unit on engine no good .try this un plug sensor and jumper across plug end and see if fan come on if so positive sensor defect.change sensor.

Remove the single screw or nut that holds the speedometer cas to the tank. carefully move the case forward and release from the front or the tand. disconnect the two or three plugs and the speedometer cable and remove the speedometer case. under the case you will find a bolt holding the front of the tank. remove it along with the rear bolt. Disconnect the fuel line and the petcock vacuum line on the left side and remove the tank straight up. As you remove the tank some models have a vent line on the right side under the tank that must be removed. Don't lose the rubber knobs that hold the tank straight. they are on the frame at the bottom of the tank. Good luck.......Jim

If it is a rubber bushing, you can try spraying silicone into it and allowing the siicone to work in. That should quiet it down.

If you unbolt the fuel tank and place the bike next to a table of the correct height, rest oneside of the tank that you need to get access to the underside for the plugs and the tank will rest, still connected up, on the tabletop.
Saves hours!

Chances are you need to do a valve job. Do a compression check on each cylinder to be certain. The compression should be around 130 to 150psi. Please rate my solution.

The carb needs to be cleaned out.

With the battery charged fully. And the fuel turned on pull the choke out and try starting and one it does push the choke back in so you don't flood the engine.

The stock jet is a #135.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

the problem is with the pin in the front wheel of your bike or the wire connected to meter is not connected properly.
the pin is responsibale to move the speedometer .
It rotated at the same speed as that of front wheel and involves gear arrangements.

If the bike runs then Top Dead Center (TDC) is not an issue. But to check piston stroke position, Remove the valve cap cover on the intake of the front cylinder. Remove both the spark plugs. Rotate the crank shaft untill the rocker arm starts to move. The piston is now starting down on the intake stroke. Rotate the crank further and the rocker arm moves in the opposite direction. The piston is now going upward on the compression stroke. Look at the marks on the flywheel. Rotate the crank untill the TDC mark lines up with the timing index mark. The front piston is now at TDC.

If your model has carbs then the backfire fix requires you to syncronize and balance the carbs.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your carbs.

Please rate this solution. Thanks sgtswampdonk!

the cooling fan should be operated by a sensor in the radiator. it controlls the ground to the powered fan

May be your bikes clutch plates are bad, try to replace the clutch plates it might work...

Question edited to add MAKER. Question moved from Computers category. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasaki+Vulcan+parts ..

Of course. The bolt is in the middle of the splined shaft and holds the sprocket as well. Some have a hole where you insert a rod to lock the sprocket, or you can put the bike in 1st Gear and give the breaker bar a sharp tap with a lump hammer. Or you can jam the chain somewhere back by the back sprocket, for instance putting a ratchet strap through the rear forks and the wheel, or you can get someone to apply the rear brake.

Vin numbers give all the info you need. Call a dealership and they can tell you. If there is a data plate, it also has the model on it.