20 Most Recent 1999 kawasaki VN 800 A Vulcan Questions & Answers

Fuse box under left side cover.

Check the kickstand saffety switch to see if it is shorting out when you hit bumps.

Tighting the bolt very tight is OK but over doing it can collaspe the spacers. It's more likly that if loosing the bolt corrects the problem it's been put to gether wrong. Look at the bike bandit .com for your bikes rear wheel and see if yours has all the right parts in the right order. Maybe the rear brakes are worn out or something in the brake came loose. The chain and sprocket can make alot of niose. Axel not the same on both sides. chain dry or too loose or too tight. Chain gaurd touching chain or the tire. With the wheel jacked up turn it and work the brake to see if the noise changes. The wheel should turn very easy cheak breakes and chain for probelems wheel bears do fail but mileage needs to be high or wet.

if it lives above 4000 ft then it will need re-jetting.
Is it stock or does it have a dynojet kit? If dynojet then you need the DJ130 main jet.

An air leak somewhere between the carb and the cylinder can cause the RPM problem. Tighten the mounting bolts. The carb may be clean but there is still a problem on the inside. Possibilities include plugged main jet, and/or needle jet. Also an incorrect needle jet setting. You have a very sophisticated carburetor. If you have already cleaned the inside of the carb I would let the dealer check it out.

Please rate this answer. Thanks kschomig!

Kawasaki Fury 125 Service Manual Pdf

I just found the parts diagram for the 800A2 on http://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/29169/1996/VN800-A2. I hope this is enough for what you need. Good luck and happy riding.

NO ! Prime is as it says , to prime fuel ! On or reserve is correct !!

thats a saftey feature on meny import bikes

There are a lot of differences between fuel injection and carbs.
the intake ports on the head may be different( another head required)
wiring loom is different, and will need the fuel injection computer
exhaust can be different
air box can be different
throttle cables can be different
fuel tank is different, and fuel pump
and a few more things I havent thought of.
Not certain if there is any commercial kit available.
Any thing is possible, but you would need to weigh up if its viable, and economical.
If you could find a similar injected model and swap all these parts you would have a slight chance of converting

if its a 2 stroke then you need fuel spark and air to get the bike to start have you got compression? check it by removing the spark plug and put your finger over the hole air try and start the bike your finger should be pulled into the hole if not then a piston ring is either cracked or broken

open the air box and check the filter then clean the carb thats all you need for a 2 stroke

if its a 4 stroke then again check the air filter and compression remember that a 4 stroke doesnt have the oil with the fuel it goes in a separate chamber

hope this helps


John

Check your fuses

the oil site glass is on the left side of the bike down around the shifter and I use a extendable mirror and a flashlight. I aim the mirror at the site glass while shining the light at the mirror. easy

sounds like old contaminated fuel.
Drain the bowls of each caeb and see if that makes it better.

Probably ... the trunk will come with back pad ... you will not need the luggage rack or the sissy bar any longer.

Thanks for your visit today.

You don't really let us know which bike it is, so I'll cover a few things. If it's older, double check that there aren't any loose connections anywhere. There are a few specific switches to check. There is usually a switch at the clutch perch, that has two wires coming in, you have to pull the clutch in to activate the starter switch. There is also a sidestand switch usually. Which does the same thing, (but this one usually only cuts power when you shift it into first). And if all of that checks out, the engine cutoff switch should be checked too. You would jumper any of those connections to make them contact eachother to see if they are working or not.

There is one "easy" way to see if the starter solenoid is the problem (or one of those switches) is to jumper the starter solenoid. You put a screwdriver across the two contacts on the starter solenoid. BUT BE CAREFUL! this is grounding it out and causes sparks to fly, only do it for a second. Get back to us to see if any of that worked out for you. Good luck!

Bruno

Run and reserve operate off the vacuum diaphragm. Prime is the only position that should allow fuel to flow with out having the engine turned on.

Rebuilding the carb would have nothing to do with the bike running on reserve but not running in the "on" position. Chances are you just need more gas in the tank or the "on" pipe filter inside the tank is plugged up with trash. Please rate my answer, thanks.

forks are of many types, you should get a maintenace manual for your bike as it is a job only for the informed.

It might be running lean. Turn out the fuel screw 1/2 turn at a time and see if it improves. That usually is it, if not, then the valves may be out of adjustment but much less likely. Let me know how this works out for you.

Benjamin