1999 kawasaki Zephyr 750 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I had a simular problem, oil was weeping from the end bolts of valve cover, a new gasket solved the problem.

you will need to get rid of safety cut outs. i.e kick stand sensor,etc

new choke cable maybe. Or choke is not actually a choke like on a car. It is actually a fuel richener. There are three jets in each carb. The main jet, idle jet and the starter jet. The main and idle jet can be removed. The starter jet, which is key to the problem, is pressed in. It is the small brass jet by the main jet. This gets clogged very easily. You see, this jet fills a small chamber under the choke rod from the fuel bowl. When the rod is slid out of the way when you slide the choke lever back, the fuel in this chamber is pulled into the cylinder when it turns over. I had to use a very small stainless wire to clean it out. I used a wire cut from my wire wheel. Disassemble each carb completely. Soak each carb in carb cleaner and wash off per instructions. Then poke the wire into the starter jet until it goes through. You will be able to blow air through it if it is unclogged. Once you do this it should fire right away and then idle. What you are doing by opening up your idle screw is allowing more air in to pull fuel in through the idle jet. Make sure you sync your carbs too. Smooth idle is also dependant on that.

you can replace the oil sending unit and get a mechanical guage to test oil pressure. oil pump never if ever fail.

Put the Zeph on the centre stand Undo the bolts attached to the side stand and disconnect the switch sensor wires. Be careful of the spring. To put the new stand on, just reattach as you would taking it off.

Remove head light and mounting, clocks. take off the top yolk. the ignition is held in with screwed rivets, you need to drill off the rivet head and it will come off. take out the screws, a small set of mole grips will do the job. and replace with relevant size bolts when replacing.,

You have'nt left much info to go on! If the indicators light up but not flash, possibly the indicator flasher unit is not working. If they are not coming on at all, have you looked at the fuse and connections.

there is no overflow for the carbs and are vacuum fed, it could possibly be the fuel tap is letting fuel thru to the carbs when the bike is not running and going into the cylinders. good idea to take the fuel line off the tap and see if it is letting petrol thru. if so, a new gasket and seal set should cure the problem. otherwise a float in one of the carbs is maybe stuck open.

Take your serial number to the dealership along with proof of ownership, they can make you one from the number.

Hi, thoose hoses are there to open de petcock when needed (when vacuum exists you need petrol)
it could be the other way around or even one pipe from 1 carb to the petcock it would work ok
all the best to you

Please the air fuel ratio.

I turn the carb. upside down and set the float level with body

Take off the gas cap and place a long clear siphon hose into the fill opening . Remove the old fuel using vacuum suction. Caution: Gasoline is poisonous. Remove and clean the carburetors . If you tried to start the motor with old fuel the carburetor is now gummed up with varnish and will need a thorough cleaning.
Tip: If your machine has a plastic fuel tank always siphon out the fuel and use it in your car or lawnmower. Gasoline is expensive it is a shame to let it get stale and go to waste. Only metal fuel tanks need to be stored with fuel in them so they do not rust.
If the oil in your jet ski has not been contaminated with water (from not having the cap on) it should be fine . Generally, stroke oil has a long shelf life unlike modern gasoline that has an extremel short shelf life.
What your jet ski is worth really depends on condition, location, and time of year. You can can get an idea what it is worth in your area by looking at ebay, craigslist, and the local paper. Running your machine is probably worth between $600 and $1800.

Did you try ebay? if not look there it is a good place for things like that. if you have let me know what make and model it is.

Check the timing on the bike and make sure that everything is at top dead center when you check the valve gap. Otherwise, I think your neighborhood mechanic is probably correct.

www.kzrider.com
has all you ever want to know about the kz bikes..

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..