Top 20 1999 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Questions & Answers


Check for vacuum leaks around the carb. intake boots. If there are no leaks take carbs apart and clean the main and intermediate jets. you may have to possibly rejet it with different size jets. Have you made any changes to the bike's engine or exhaust?

1999 kawasaki... | 102 views | 0 helpful votes


My first check would be the battery to earth connection...... High resistance is a real no-no - strip, clean, re-attach to frame.

1999 kawasaki... | 90 views | 0 helpful votes


Hey.. Time for a qualified professional to take a look at your fuel system... First, there is NO reason to "jet an engine high" unless there has been extensive modifications...(and ones that actually work!!!)... have the PROFESSIONAL clean and set the carbs... the gas in your oil is coming from the carburetors..
PLEASE take this entire bike to a PROFESSIONAL.. let them FIX it.. and TELL them about the jets.. they know what is correct..let them FIX IT!!

1999 kawasaki... | 64 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Gemmaj_p123 what is your ignition fuse doing, if your blowing CDI's then I would look for a short coming from the CDI on it's way to the coils, cracked or worn or chafed wiring for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 kawasaki... | 121 views | 0 helpful votes


maybe you need to check your valve clearances.

1999 kawasaki... | 49 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Jeff for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R 1995 2002 Service Repair Factory Manual Download... $15
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e



1999 kawasaki... | 74 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Jeff for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki... | 30 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.zxforums.com/forums/mechanical-technical/37527-setting-mixture-screws.html
http://zx6r.com/zx6r/4617-trying-tune-2000-zx-6r.html
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R 1995 2002 Service Repair Factory Manual Download... $15
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


1999 kawasaki... | 814 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Losing power top speed is 70 at 9 000rpm WHAT GOING ON ninjette org
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=258596 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Owner Manual

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1999 kawasaki... | 41 views | 0 helpful votes


If the engine is warm it should be pushed in, or turned down.
If the engine is cold it should be pulled out, or turned up.

1999 kawasaki... | 49 views | 0 helpful votes


when you drilled out the pilot jet you destroyed it. Even if you have jewelers bits they are to big. One drill bit size is 6 to 10 jet sizes. Replace the pilot jets, you are running WAYYYYY to rich at idle.

1999 kawasaki... | 203 views | 0 helpful votes


Do any lights come on when you turn the key? Do you need to pull in the clutch leaver to start? Make sure engine kill switch is in run position, Make sure you have petrol if more than 2 months old change it. Check main and ignition fuses are OK in fact check all fuses while your at it. Make sure your battery is OK your charger may say full but that does not mean the battery has enough oomph to start the bike.
How long ago since it last ran OK does anything come to mind when you stopped it then. Times of no run = times of problems.

1999 kawasaki... | 118 views | 0 helpful votes


Negative earth wiring systems need a good contact earth, check the earth lead terminal from your battery see where it terminates it might need sanding up a bit , the reason for your tank becoming live is that it is bieng fed by a live feed somewhere underneath it. I know its a pain having to take off the panels and tank off but im quite sure that if you take it off youll find it, a wire could be displaced, freyed and touching.

1999 kawasaki... | 75 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Dave and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty wiring to any safety switch.
2. Safety switches loose at the mounting point.
3. Faulty kickstand safety switch.
4. Failed kickstand safety switch circuit diode.
5. Stretched side stand spring.
6. Side stand not coming up far enough to disengage switch.
7. Faulty clutch lever safety switch.
8. Faulty neutral safety switch.
9. Clutch not properly adjusted.
10. Clutch plates sticking, forward lurch
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
ninja will idle but dies when try to put it in gear KawiForums Kawasaki...
zx6r 05 when put in gear engine stalls
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R 1995 2002 Service Repair Factory Manual Download... $15
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1999 kawasaki... | 75 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mathew and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Wont Upshift into 3rd or 4th
http://zx6r.com/zx6r/38529-bike-will-not-shift-up-into-2nd-any-higher-gears-please-help.html
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual
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Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki... | 101 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://zx6r.com/zx6r/3096-kawasaki-zx6r-g1-color-codes.html Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R 1995 2002 Service Repair Factory Manual Download... $15
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki... | 198 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R 1995 2002 Service Repair Factory Manual Download... $15
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


1999 kawasaki... | 230 views | 0 helpful votes


z_dogg, you do not need new carbs. Several issues may cause throttle sticking, and all of them are cheaper than a new set of carbs. Introducing a used set of carbs just introduces a new unknown set of potential issues.
This approach moves from easiest to most involved solution.
First, take apart the throttle at the handlebar. Clean the throttle tube, the part you twist to accelerate, and lubricate the throttle tube and throttle cable with penetrating oil like WD40. To get the lube into the cable I use a finger from a rubber glove with a small hole in the tip, slip it over the cable end and fill it with lube, then let it seep down into the cable. Best results ever. Re-assemble this end and test your results.
Second, if it is still sticking, check the cable routing. Often the cables get bent or twisted and cause binding that prevents free release. Make sure the cables are routed with no sharp bends, and the largest curves possible.
Third, disconnect the cable from the carbs and move the throttle linkage itself. If it snaps back into place, it is the cable not the carbs. If it does not snap back, lube the linkage at each carburetor while moving it and see if it frees up.
Fourth, if it still sticks, you will need to pull the carbs and clean them thoroughly inside. It may be the vacuum slides that are sticking open and keeping it from slowing down. It would be best to invest in a manual to guide you through this process. It can be done with a few cans of carb cleaner and careful handling of the parts.
All the best in your repairs!

1999 kawasaki... | 262 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Amyl_woods82 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://zx6r.com/zx6r/43882-2003-zx6r-dies-stalls-when-rpm-drops.html
Losing power bogging on Freeway High RPM Scary Help Please Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R 1995 2002 Service Repair Factory Manual Download... $15
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki... | 186 views | 0 helpful votes


maby u must go and ask in a place were someone fixes motorsicles...be cause it will be dificult to understannd wat was issued when u dont give any datails here...

1999 kawasaki... | 128 views | 0 helpful votes

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