Top 20 1999 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Questions & Answers

Check for vacuum leaks around the carb. intake boots. If there are no leaks take carbs apart and clean the main and intermediate jets. you may have to possibly rejet it with different size jets. Have you made any changes to the bike's engine or exhaust?

My first check would be the battery to earth connection...... High resistance is a real no-no - strip, clean, re-attach to frame.

Hey.. Time for a qualified professional to take a look at your fuel system... First, there is NO reason to "jet an engine high" unless there has been extensive modifications...(and ones that actually work!!!)... have the PROFESSIONAL clean and set the carbs... the gas in your oil is coming from the carburetors.. PLEASE take this entire bike to a PROFESSIONAL.. let them FIX it.. and TELL them about the jets.. they know what is correct..let them FIX IT!!

If the engine is warm it should be pushed in, or turned down. If the engine is cold it should be pulled out, or turned up.

when you drilled out the pilot jet you destroyed it. Even if you have jewelers bits they are to big. One drill bit size is 6 to 10 jet sizes. Replace the pilot jets, you are running WAYYYYY to rich at idle.

Do any lights come on when you turn the key? Do you need to pull in the clutch leaver to start? Make sure engine kill switch is in run position, Make sure you have petrol if more than 2 months old change it. Check main and ignition fuses are OK in fact check all fuses while your at it. Make sure your battery is OK your charger may say full but that does not mean the battery has enough oomph to start the bike. How long ago since it last ran OK does anything come to mind when you stopped it then. Times of no run = times of problems.

Negative earth wiring systems need a good contact earth, check the earth lead terminal from your battery see where it terminates it might need sanding up a bit , the reason for your tank becoming live is that it is bieng fed by a live feed somewhere underneath it. I know its a pain having to take off the panels and tank off but im quite sure that if you take it off youll find it, a wire could be displaced, freyed and touching.

z_dogg, you do not need new carbs. Several issues may cause throttle sticking, and all of them are cheaper than a new set of carbs. Introducing a used set of carbs just introduces a new unknown set of potential issues.This approach moves from easiest to most involved solution.First, take apart the throttle at the handlebar. Clean the throttle tube, the part you twist to accelerate, and lubricate the throttle tube and throttle cable with penetrating oil like WD40. To get the lube into the cable I use a finger from a rubber glove with a small hole in the tip, slip it over the cable end and fill it with lube, then let it seep down into the cable. Best results ever. Re-assemble this end and test your results.Second, if it is still sticking, check the cable routing. Often the cables get bent or twisted and cause binding that prevents free release. Make sure the cables are routed with no sharp bends, and the largest curves possible.Third, disconnect the cable from the carbs and move the throttle linkage itself. If it snaps back into place, it is the cable not the carbs. If it does not snap back, lube the linkage at each carburetor while moving it and see if it frees up.Fourth, if it still sticks, you will need to pull the carbs and clean them thoroughly inside. It may be the vacuum slides that are sticking open and keeping it from slowing down. It would be best to invest in a manual to guide you through this process. It can be done with a few cans of carb cleaner and careful handling of the parts.All the best in your repairs!

maby u must go and ask in a place were someone fixes motorsicles...be cause it will be dificult to understannd wat was issued when u dont give any datails here...

A stationary armature of wire with a laminated iron core. usually used for charging the battery and providing power for things like lighting.

You can buy a lowering kit for a range of bikes, simply replacing the linkage on the lower of the suspension will reduce the rideheight by a preset determined amount check out ebay item 310343894620

What make and model alarm do you have also describe what happens when you pres the fob to disarm the alarm

Hi, you will need to get yourself a set of vachume gauges, you will connect 1of these gauges to each of the vachume pipes on each cylinder on the carb inles maniflold.you will run up the engine to normal temp having first replaced any worn spark plugs,it is not ness to get all of the hauges reading exactly the same while the engine is running, 1 increment indifferance would be allowed if you cannot reach exactly the same. The tickover screw addjusts number 3 carb, and the rest are fine tuned by the spring loaded screw between the other carbs, if they are close enough when you check them initialy, leave them alone and recheck at a later date, hope i have explaned to your satisfaction, not a job for the faint hearted, any probbs contact me and i will reply on earlyest convenience, paul

Chances are you have a bad dimmer switch.
Check and//or replace.

The engine takes 10w-40 motorcycle oil.Trans and engine share oil. Antifreeze is a 50/50 mix.

take carbs apart to clean probably disturbed sediments in float bolws
and now are pluging up jets motors not developing horsepower when its in nutral
easier to rev up

hi best solution is to have the fuel tap on the "on" position as if your on a long
run out and forget to top up your tank the bike will splutter to a halt then all you have to do then is switch to reserve and find a gas station fast the idea is to buy you a bit of time, instead of riding on reserve which case you will just run out of gas and have to walk to the nearest gas station

I am unsure which washers you are asking about. You can go to the web site below and view an exploded diagram of the swing arm and rear wheel components. Do the "PARTS SEARCH BY MODEL" option. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com

The Bike Technicians Tactic

Phase1

An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician's tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities.

Engine Technicians Tactic

PHASE 2

A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.

Sounds like bad syncros in the tranny