Top 20 1998 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi, thats a nice easy one, first support your bike on a stand so the wheel is clear of the ground, remove the locking pin from the rear axle nut if fitted, to make life easyer undo the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket and lift the caliper clear of the disc, next put a piece of wood or similar to support the rear wheel when you remove the spindle, the spindles on these bikes can become seized and difficult to remove (wor

What year, and was it first sold in CA? Many Asian bikes w/ carbs had restrictors on the fuel adjustments. Locks down so lean for emissions that they wouldn't even idle. Look for rejetting kits on the internet if so. Easy to tap out restrictor and rejet. Did that on a 2010 Suzuki and it ran great.

The screw I think you are adjusting is the idle mixture screw, and will only make a differnce at idle
You set at the smoothest idle
.
If power in 1 and 2 is the problem, then there is something else, make sure the carb is clean, the exhaust is not blocked , the air filter is clean and relatively new,valve clearances? are ok, new spark plug , new oil, and then start looking at the jetting.
up to 1\4 throttle -pilot jet
around mid range -needle position
top end -main jet.
try riding with and without choke to get some idea, if it runs better with some choke then it is lean

Remove the rear seat the fuse box should be the black box there

If you have a helper, you can have them apply the brake and maintain the fluid level while you bleed the old fluid off. If you don't have help, you can use a hand vacuum pump at the bleeder to draw out the old fluid while ensuring the fluid resivoir is kept full untill you see the new fluid coming through.

Don't take it apart then!C'mon, on a serious note, your not telling us what you are trying to put back together.

sounds like it might be a Chinese made bike.you might try(ZHEJIANG CHAOZHONG MOTORS)good luck i had a hard time finding parts for mine.

Follow the red (Positive) battery cable out away from the battery, you will find the main starter relay and with this relay is a main fuse under a plastic cover to the side. Check this fuse, if this fuse is ok. You need to check your wiring to/from the key switch. You can check the battery connection with a short wire and jump across the starter relay. Jump across the two large post of the relay. If the battery is hooked up and hot, the starter will turn. if all this is ok, you have a main harness problem. Hope this helps Fix Ya up.

It is down on the front of the carbs Raise up tank that will help you find it MOPAR KENNY

need to remove and clean or rebuild

G'day.
I guess your wondering what is going on- no loss of coolant but it's moving from the radiator to the catch tank.You put it back in the radiator & back it goes to the catch tank again- seems like somthings wrong but the answer is simple really.
As your bike warms up,the cooant in the radiator expands with the heat & moves excess to the catch tank.
Then the water contracts when the bike cools down & some of the coolant is now in the catch tank & the radiator a bit low.
So what to do.
Run it & this time don't put the excess back in the radiator.
Set the catch tank to max & then just moniter whats going on from there.
It's normal for the radiator to be down just that bit when cold to allow for the water expansion when it gets hot.
If the radiator gets too low ,coolant will be drawn out of the catch tank to fill it up.
This is called a coolant recovery system & is commonly fitted to liquid cooled bikes.
The part to check is the radiator cap.
You will see two rubber parts on the under side of the cap.
One black rubber on a spring & the other seal just under the lip of the cap.Check that these are not damaged.
If either is split replace the radiator cap.
I hope this has been of some help.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

Spin the engine and recheck, the coils should receive voltage alternately

Start at the battery, then make sure he wires and cables are all good, try to bump start the bike to make sure the motor is not siezed,

Make sure your battery has a full charge and if that doesnt help then follow wires look for wroghted out or looses and disconnected wires from your ignition to your starter to even the plug wires also make sure the bies in neutral and the clutch is fully in!

Hi there David.Well providing that you have now got the correct amount of oil in the engine and it is running fine and not leaking you shoul have no no further issues. The question whether or not to use synthetic oil is always a difficult one.If the manufacturer suggests it as an alternative well thats fine,you could use it.If however the manufacturer does not suggest the use of then it is not advisable to use that oil. The break in process on most modern motorcycles is not a big deal and normally is carried out in the first 1000 kms and involves not reving the engine to high rpm for prolonged periods or staying at the same rpm for extended periods. This probably is not a major issue to worry about and would really only be evident if the engine uses excessive oil.

Standard is 1 & 1/2 turns out- Using a infra red Gas analyser, I found they would run the best between 2 & 2 & 1/2 turns out.try to search for the setting with the smoothest idle. So yes- you seem to have it set correctly.
Regards Andrew Porrelli

Spark plug gap is 0.6 to 0.7mm on your model

Even the bigger bikes only hold between two and four quarts. If you have one gallon of antifreeze you will have enough to do a complete change. If you buy concentrated antifreeze only use distilled water to dilute it. Tap water will add unwanted minerals that could cause deposits in the motor and radiator. Most motorcycle water pumps use a ceramic washer so they only recommend you use a NON-SILICA formula anti-freeze (any motorcycle manufacturers antifreeze, Gm Dexcool, etc.). 50/50 mix should be right for all riding conditions. If you have enough coolant for the engine but not the over flow bottle reuse some of the old anti freeze in the over flow bottle.

This may differ from model to model, as a rough guide with standard jetting, 2.5 to 3 turns out, screw the air corrector screw home (in) all the way until it stops using no force, as soon as you feel it is home stop, then unscrew the screw 5 half turns which equates to 2.5 full turns as a base setting, any furter addjustments should be done in half turn increments in or out untill the bike runs at its best

My research shows that the damper also fits ZX10R (2004-2005). I would use caution when crossing bike parts. The part numbers are the same with a suffix letter different. This indicates a variation in the part. So although it may bolt up and perform the same, there is some difference.
Ride Safe.