20 Most Recent 1998 kawasaki EL 250 Eliminator V Questions & Answers

If you can get hold of a timing light, remove both plugs from their holes and the plastic timing inspection plug.
Make sure you connect the plugs into their leads and ground them to the engine to avoid damage to the CDI unit.
Now connect the timing light and crank the engine and check the timing mark while cranking and check for a good spark at the plugs.
Put the plugs back and reconnect the leads, start the engine and run the engine at 2,500 revs giving it a not to hard rev every 10 to 15 seconds until the engine dies. should be between 3 to 4 minutes according to what you have written.
When it dies connect the timing light and try cranking while checking to see if the timing position is the same as the previous check.
If it wont die take it for a run and see if it does the same in a couple of ks then do the timing check while cranking.
If it is the CDI unit playing up the timing light will not flash or will flash at the wrong position.
But before blaming the CDI unit check the OHMS reading on your sender unit as these can fail too.
If the timing is correct when it fails then it sounds like it will be a fuel starvation issue leaning more towards the delivery and filter system even kinked or perished fuel lines rather than a carburetor problem.
Good luck

check the plug first and then the spark in the plugs if it is not ok then replace the cd unit with a new one or else fit the cd unit to another same starting vehicle to know if it is faulty.

Yes if it is leaking from the spokes that means that you need a new inner tube. Wheels with spokes are only supposed to use tubed tires. If you want to go tubeless there is a place in California that will seal the wheels for you. Look it up on Google, do a search for sealing rims with spokes. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

change tha spark plugs

1234

wiring problem. go to any mechanic for solve it, dont try to fix by yourself if you dont about it.
Sometime, it have problem with your wire. if you have modified your motorcylce with something that have use battery from your motorcycle, i hope it modifed properly, if not it will cause short circuit.

Testing with voltmeter to test wired that was damaged. Using relay for lamp also have their weakness. Each eletronic for motorcycle have calculated for standard. Adding relay and modification with carburetor, head , champ, will make little difference to their prefomance. Maybe it will more powerful, but it will reduce their lifetime.

You have probobly check these things but worth a good look.
1. Is the choke working correctly
2. Is there extra air getting into fuel mix? Air filter and pre filter in good order and not perrised, Are the air box rubbers sealing on carbs and air box 100% these tend to harden an draw back into airbox off the carbs.
3. Check the above then remove the air filter and clean all part in air box housing any dirt/particals removed check deeper into air box also as there can be residue build up there, remove the pre filter from top of airbox housing and clean replace filter ir required start bike and warm up do not over rev with filter element out , spay some carb cleaner up and into air box slowly adding throttle as you do so, do this several times refit with new air filter if required fit the top of the housing checking that the little rubber gasket is in tact.
4. Check also the petrol tap is working correctly the vacuum, may not be 100% causing your power lag/starting problem.

To remove the fuel tank, remove the seat (there are two bolts that hold the rear part of it to the frame. Then remove the single bolt at the rear of the fuel tank. Raise the tank just enough so that you can slide the fuel lines off the petcock - and slide the tank back, and off.
The problem you are most likely going to encounter are plugged up carburetors. It only takes a few months of sitting for the gasoline to evaporate and leave behind a thick, gooey varnish. This being the case, you will need to remove the carbs, completely disassemble them and soak all the metal parts in carburetor cleaner (don't put any plastic or rubber parts in the carb cleaner, they'll be ruined). Upon reassembly, blow everything out with compressed air. This is a big job, so I hope you're lucky and it won't be needed.
Remember, the three required ingredients for combustion are: fuel, compression, and a spark (at the right time).

Make sure you have a good ground on the coil and all wires are good. If all is good maybe a problem with the stator

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..

I'm assuming you have already checked the actual bulb is still OK? The bike uses a 'twin element' bulb so the tail light element might still work but the brake light element has blown. It's designed to be two bulbs in one so it takes up less space.On a lot of vehicles some electrical features share a fuse and only some of them are marked on the fuse box lid. Has anything else stopped working? On some Kawasaki bikes the brake light shares a fuse with the horn and the tail light so if the fuse has blown all three won't be working. Check the fuse labelled as the Horn to see if that has 'Popped'.*NOTE* ONLY replace fuses with one of the SAME Amp rating as lower 'A' fuses will blow and higher 'A' fuses won't protect your electrics.Bulbs and fuses are usually cheap to buy so you could replace them anyway before thinking it's going to be a 'Big' repair.

If your Kawasaki ZZR600 suddenly stopped firing, there are several possible reasons for this. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can take to identify and resolve the issue:

1. Check the battery: A weak or dead battery can prevent the engine from starting. Make sure the battery is fully charged and has a voltage of at least 12.5 volts.
2. Check the spark plugs: The spark plugs may be fouled, worn out, or damaged. Remove the spark plugs and inspect them for signs of wear or damage. If necessary, replace the spark plugs.
3. Check the ignition system: The ignition coils, ignition module, and wiring may be faulty. Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the coils and check the wiring for continuity. Replace any faulty components as needed.
4. Check the fuel system: The fuel filter may be clogged, the fuel pump may be faulty, or there may be a problem with the fuel injectors. Check the fuel pressure and flow, and inspect the fuel filter and injectors for any signs of clogging or damage.
5. Check the carburetor (if applicable): If your ZZR600 has a carburetor, it may be dirty or clogged. Remove the carburetor and clean it thoroughly with carburetor cleaner.
6. Check the camshaft timing: If the camshaft timing is off, the engine may not fire properly. Check the timing marks and adjust the camshaft if necessary.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, you may need to take your ZZR600 to a qualified mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.