20 Most Recent 1997 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The best success I have bleeding my clutch is to do it in this order.
1- fill reservoir with dot 4
2-loosen bleed screw on slave cylinder and let gravity bleed
3-never let reservoir run out while gravity bleeding
4- when you see steady dripping fron bleeder screw, tighten screw.
5-top off reservoir with fluid and install top back on reservoir
6-loosen bleeder and squeeze clutch all the way in one time and hold it.
7-tighten bleeder before releasing clutch
8-repeat this step one more time
9-remove reservoir top and refill the cylnder
10-put top back on reservoir
11-pump clutch handle 5 times and hold in
12-open bleeder screw
13- repeat this step 3 times
14- you should have a good clutch
15-check fluid in reseervoir one more time to make sure it is still full

The jets in your carburetors are restricted from fuel sitting in bike and turning to varnish. The color change on the pipes is an indication of the bike running excessively lean due to insufficient fuel. You will need to remove, clean and adjust the carburetors.

Your bike has a hydraulic clutch with a master cylinder at the clutch lever. Remove the cap and I think you will see there is little or no fluid in the reservoir. You need to fill it up then bleed the system to remove air in the line. This is done the same a bleeding brakes on a car. If I recall correctly, the bolt that holds the hydraulic hose to the master cylinder acts as a bleeder for the cylinder and there will be a bleeder valve at the other end of the hose to bleed the hose and actuator. Many parts are available at the website below. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Dude sorry to be so blunt but you're gonna have to put out the cash and buy a service manual. Sorry, just too many parts to show if you've done a complete teardown.

If you found the drain plug then I'm sure you have found the site glass for the oil on the left hand side of the crank case. Above the sight glass at the top of the crank case is a very large cap that looks like it take s a giant screw driver. Unscrew it and pour oil in.

Yes trans is lubed by the motor oil.
The final drive is like a rearend in a car. Gearlube.

how do I change the oil myself and filter in my 1996 vulcan 1500 classic

bout time to hav jets ajusted or replaced-please let a pro doit cause to lean or rich can blow ur engine

if your 2nd cam shaft is damage you can never go to 2nd shift and it will go to neutral or you can hit it twise to go to 3rd shift, but if you change to 2nd shift and it go neutral then you try again and it go without any hard snappimg sound then its just provably you, i hope your cam shaft is not damage, you'll spend a lot for it

not sure of this exact model but there will be a cover on the opposite side of your clutch, i do believe that this stator is bolted right into the stator but if its not it should be self explanitory once you get the cover off

Your charging system is the problem. when you got the boost it just put a little life back in the battery that's why it went dead again.

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is it using coolant? may have a leak or waterpump seal gone.
Does it over heat? may need a new head gasket
The sensor that opperates the fan relay may need replacement, the fan relay may be sticking on.

probably time to service the coolant system, flush, new coolant,thermostat and cap, pressure test the system.

the seal in your water pump but doubt it sounds like head gasket was it installed correctly? the head gasket is a crush gasket and can only be tightened one time after that it is junk and will not seal again there made from copper and crush really easy hope this helps good luck

There is a base manual part number is 99924-1078
The supplement for the D model is 99924-1191-52

You can order them threw a dealer or go to kawasaki.com

well now you should never charge a battery with more that its C-10 rate that is 1 - 10th its amp hours so if your battery is 14ah then its 1 - 10th charge rate of ie:1.4ah,,, so you wonting to use an 800ma charger will trickel charge it just fine as thats near as d*m it C20 half of whats the C10 for this battery is so hook it up its fine and wont over charge it and it should be fully charged in 17.5 hours,,,
if your going to lay the bike up for any time its a good idear to get one of them 2.5 watt solar chargers hook it up to the battery and forget about it i do it with my bikes (bmw 750 with a 35ah battery) over every winter and when i go back to it in the spring it fires up first time every time there fairly cheap and it only needs day light to work,,,free power!!! cant be all bad!
my solar charger cost £20 off of e-bay,, best $20 i ever spent too, my battery is now 4 years old and still going strong as i never let it go flat,,,
sound advice from an old biker!!!

At the end of the gear lever ( the part that attaches to the pivot ) there is a ( usually ) size 10 (metric) bolt, unscrew it and you will have released the lever pull it out gently and adjust to your foot's delight !! After that just screw the bolt back on.

Any special oils or lubricants in the gearbox? Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. If in a hot area like Texas or New Mexico go with 20w50.

If the clutch still slips then go to a different mechanic and have him adjust the clutch. The first guy doesn't know what he is talking about.

The oil pump is inside the case halves. You have to completely dismantle the engine to get to the oil pump. If you know how to rebuild an engine, you can do it yourself. If you have to pay someone else to do it, you mine as well change the pistons, rings, cam chains, and maybe even rod bearings.

speedo cable runs from front wheel gear up fork leg under fuel tank to speedometer

You could be hearing the solenoid or the relay,but it sounds like you have a loose connection if it is clicking fast.