20 Most Recent 1997 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan Questions & Answers


Hi, Gabriel and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirty or clogged air filter.
2. Faulty spark plug.
3. Bad Gas.
4. Improper oil level.
5. Improper chain adjustment and lubrication.
6. Low tire pressure.
7. Dirty or contaminated carburetor needs cleaning and tuning.
8. Clogged or faulty fuel pump or injectors.
9. Improper valve adjustment.
10. Slipping clutch.
11. Improper timing.
12. Low compression.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/22-carbs-fuel-system/12631-help-needed-poor-power-after-4000rpm.html
Losing power bogging on Freeway High RPM Scary Help Please KawiForums...
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1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 03, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1997 Kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan fuel line routing Google Search
https://www.vn750.com/forum/22-carbs-fuel-system/8356-need-fuel-line-diagram.html
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1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Aug 05, 2018


Hi, Walshy9587 your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual

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1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 14, 2018


Hi, Sherrod it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/8631-how-do-i-adjust-engine-idle.html
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/131821-adjusting-idle-speed-98-vulcan-750-a.html
Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual
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1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 14, 2018


Hi, Ethan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Battery not charging Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums Simple charging system troubleshooting Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum Kawasaki...
Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual
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1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 14, 2018


Hi, Anonymous if your carburetor or exhaust is:
COUGHING is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp build up of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals.
POPPING on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec.
SPITTING is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean.
BACKFIRING is usually caused by a sticky/tight intake valve or a timing issue, 180 degrees out or cam chain off 1or 2 teeth.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Causes of backfire Kawasaki Vulcan Forum Vulcan Forums
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1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 13, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual
1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 13, 2018


Hi, Bates_ricky nice novella and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting, leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle
Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual
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Kawasaki VN800 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 11, 2017


I've got the service manual. Do you need it?

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Feb 17, 2012


You removed all the CA emissions and air box? If it is legal in your home state then it would be fine otherwise you are not going to be happy if the Government found out your illegal modifictions unless it is for off-road purposes.
Did you reinstall the air box again and use an air filter?
If you didnot then install it back and see a difference.
If this advise is good the rate this for the free community support. Thanks

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Aug 01, 2010


OK, what kind of Mechanic are you/ If bike mechanic you should have ta general idea on how to, else drain oil then unbolt the RH case and get those clutch pack out. Good?

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Apr 30, 2010


SOUNDS LIKE ITS NOT GETTING FUEL CHECK THE CARBS

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Jan 29, 2010


two plugs and I would recommend Denso Iridium Power Spark Plug IX22B

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Dec 30, 2009


Kaw Part # 16097-1054 FILTER- ASSY-OIL

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Aug 03, 2009


The best advice I can give you is DON'T DO IT. Alteration of original equipment emission control devices is prohibited under Federal law Title II, 40CFR, better know as the Clean Air Act. Since the engine was designed with the emission controls as an integral part of the engine, instead of the power and performance robbing junk slapped on to vehicles in the late 70's and the early 80's, alteration will not give you any significant performance improvements.

1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Feb 28, 2009


Hi, H for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual
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1989 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki VN 750... | Answered on Mar 15, 2018


Hi, Tony always check fuel flow first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly.
3. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt.
4. Fuel valve/petcock not in the on or reserve position.
5. Vacuum line to fuel valve cracked, broken, pinched, or missing*
6. Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn*
7. Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing.
8. Fuel pump not working*
9. Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing.
10. Carburetor inlet clogged.
11. Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck.
12. Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent.
* If equipped or applicable.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/108-raptor-250-discussion/78391-carb-plugged-bowl-not-filling-bike-won-t-fire-except-w-starting-fluid.html
http://www.zipware.org/ for the next link
https://www.vulcanrider.se/en/kawasaki-vulcan-service-manuals
Kawasaki VN750 Manual and Parts pdf Document Viewer
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki VN 750... | Answered on Nov 26, 2016


Hi Todd:
Sounds suspiciously like it would be brake fluid.
Check to see if it is connected to the rear brake master cylinder. (that's the thing that has a shaft that is connected to the brake pedal)
Motorcycles like Grade 4.

kawasaki VN 750... | Answered on Apr 05, 2016


There's a black plastic knurled knob under the left side of the gas tank that adjusts idle speed.

kawasaki VN 750... | Answered on Feb 08, 2015


fuel comes out of air filters????!! no, definitely wrong

kawasaki VN 750... | Answered on Apr 14, 2014

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