20 Most Recent 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 5 Questions & Answers

If you are saying the shift shaft going into the case has broken just outside the casing, you would be best to replace it as opposed to having it welded. If you refer to the pedal mount shaft then you could possibly weld it then grind and file for a better appearance. A new shaft would cost about $41.00. My concern is whether or not a shift fork has been bent when the bike fell. If a fork is bent the shifting will be stiff, sometimes to the point the pedal is rock hard and just plain will not shift at all. Or it may shift up but not down or vice-versa. A bent shift fork is a VERY expensive repair and not one I would recommend to the home mechanic. The entire engine has to be torn down. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

its becoz of the pistons worn out as its giving a similar sound to under compression could be the plugs but as the plugs are replaced newly it could be solved by replacing the piston rings or it could be detected that the sound comes from cram /rod razors worn out better check and replace it.if there is problem in starting at once it even could be the fault of the timing belt/chain. better check and replace them if necessary.

Right side engine cover has a glass window towards the bottom. With the bike standing straight up, the oil level should be between the two lines.

Try Babbitt's. www.babbittsonline.com

If it has a dip stick Add 1 qt at a time till it comes to full mark ..

There is a site glass on the side of the crankcase that contains the clutch, it is about the size of a quarter, the oil should be 1/2 way up the glass hot engine.

No you shouldnt need special tool.Look close at caliper there are rubber caps covering bolts that secure it.somtimes it hard to see if caliper is dirty so clean and take a look.they are usally allen keys or metric bolts.

You need to tighten/adjust your frame neck bearings. There are an upper and lower bearing in the frame that the lower triple clamp pivots on so you can steer the motorcycle. If they are not adjusted correctly and are basically set too loose you can have several problems from steering wobble on deceleration to vibrations at varying speeds. Take off your bars and upper clamp , then snug up the steering stem nut just enough that it is starting to bind, then back it off enough that the bar turns smoothly lock to lock (probably1/4 to 1/2 turn). Then tighten the stem nut and recheck for binding. If you can feel pulsing or bumps in the smoothness of the pivoting/turning of the handlebar , you will need to replace the bearings. Tightening the steering stem nut may be all you need to do to stop the vibration.

Sounds like the fan is not comming on allowing the heat to build up.
Temp/fan switch/ or fan motor

u dont if its injection-computer shud doit by default unless theres issues in the system--is the spark plug tite on that cylinder or does it come out the carb/throttle body--purchase a shop manual for troublshootn

grease all of the parts if they need it. it depends on the kind of driving the bike has been through. look for grease fittings too.
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Only if they are a little on the long side or are not routed correctly.

Opps, I hate it when stuff like this happes, especially when threr are not a bunch of good riding days left in the season.

If you can get a hack saw or a small file on top of the drain plug, cut a slot that will allow you to get a stout flat blade driver onto the plug and hopefully you can sneak it out.

If it's a hex head plug,you could take a socket of a smaller size and drive it onto the plug, and hopefully get enough bite to get it out

And last but not least...vice grips ...if you can get ahold of the plug with them.

These are are back yard mechanic fixes that I have used over the years, hopefully one willl help you.

Ride safe!

it may be like the suzuki and have a glass eye down on the bottom
side of your crankcase. if you hold your bike up and look at the
glass your oil level should be half way up the glass.

Check On The Base Motor under at front ...

Sounds like your carburetor needs to be cleaned. If it will only run on choke there is something blocking the fuel.Hope this helps you
D.

Spark plug caps are one of the problems that most people overlook.Most caps have a 5000 OHM resistance. If they measure higher or lower than 5000 they should be replaced. They can cause you to drop a cylinder , miss at idle, sputtering down the highway.
NGK caps can be purchased for $3-$8 each. Change your plugs and caps at the same time in case one of the plugs has fouled.

Check visually to see if needle jet is moving up with slide when twisting the throttle. Another way to check is to remove top carb. cap, remove slide, check that the needle jet is attached. Hope this helps.

your kickstand safety switch is gummed up. for safety reasons your bike will not allow you to ride with the kickstand down. The switch is stuck that controls this safety feature. A can of spray carb cleaner will remove any gunk, or you may need to replace the switch. The switch is located near the kickstand. Just look for some wires in the area, they most likey go to the switch.

Check the brake light switch down under the brake pedal. There is a small spring that allows the switch to **** off when the pedal is released. Might be unhooked or even broken.