20 Most Recent
1996 kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Page 2 Questions & Answers
Zzr gear box
I have been a bike mechanic for over 10 years and never seen this one before. The only thing I can even think of is a broken shift fork. This would let a slider gear wander freely and potentially engage a gear while the bike is already in a different gear. This would account for the rear wheel lock up. The 'tight spot' would probably be a torqued and twisted shaft resulting from the lock up.
The repair will be major surgery on the tranny. Personally, I would replace all shafts, all gears and all shift forks. You don't know and can't just look and see what stress has been put on any individual gear. I would hate to see you put in a few gears, put the engine back in the bike, then find a stressed gear dropping a couple of teeth the first time you hit second. To put it another way, get a new tranny and a new chain. The chain was stressed also. Sorry about the bad news.
Ask the dealer what the cost would be to replace the entire tranny but not the clutch. Now Google ' salvage motorcycles kawasaki ' and see what an entire used engine would cost. Chances are the engine swap that you can do yourself will cost less than the dealer's repair of the current tranny.
PLEASE RATE THIS ANSWER. Thanks!
Dunno where to put oil
Make your life easy. Call your local Jetski dealer and ask where the oil tank is located. The oil needed is called TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL. Buy the oil from the dealer as a thank you for their help. P.S., wait 30 days and you won't freeze so bad.
Zzr110 bike 1996
hopefully, :(
or it could be a cracked head or block. (if it's been overheated)
Kawasaki zzr1100c what is the valve clearence
hi there,
this table will help you. I used to own one.. beautiful bikes easy to work on too!
Valves:
Valve clearance: Inlet 0.13 0.19 mm
Exhaust 0.18 0.24 mm
Valve head thickness: Inlet 0.5mm 0.25 mm
Exhaust 0.8mm 0.5mm
Valve stem bend 0.05 mm TIR
Valve stem diameter: Inlet 4.975 4.990 mm 4.96 mm
Exhaust 4.955 4.970 mm 4.94 mm
Valve guide inside diameter 5.000 5.01 2 mm 5.08 mm
Valve/valve guide clearance
(wobble method): Inlet 0.02 0.07 mm 0.18 mm
Exhaust 0.06 0.11 mm 0.21 mm
Valve seating surface:
Outside diameter: Inlet 30.8 31.0 mm
Exhaust 26.3 26.5 mm
Width 0.5 1.0 mm
Valve spring free length: Inner 35.5 mm 33.6 mm
Outer 40.5 mm 38.6 mm
Valve seat cutting angle 32 degrees, 45 degrees, 60 degrees
Hope it helps.. Ken
HI THERE OK, ZZR 1100D5 ALWAYS BEEN A BUGGER TO
Always very frustrating when you have an issue like this. Just to recap on my understanding what you have ruled out:
- not a battery issue as you have a car battery linked up!?
- not the starter motor as you have tried a second one!?
- rotation is only slightly better with the plugs removed ( trust this is all four? )
My suggestions would be:
1) remove all the plugs and with the bike in neutral, remove the timing cover at the crank and turn the crank clockwise and see how much resistance you get over a few full revolutions. Everything should move nice and easy, if it does not then there is something mechanically wrong in the engine.
2) when did you last change the oil and filter? I would suggest you do this to ensure you do not have a load of sludge in there which will certainly add lots of resistance when cranking a cold motor.
3) is it possible you are experiencing clutch drag? When cranking the bike pull the clutch in to ensure the clutch is truly disengaged and not dragging.
Try the above points and let me know how you get on.
redzed.proboards.com
1100kawaski zzr
It may be dirty carbs try cleaning them and make sure non of the jets are clogged
Fuel and temp gauges
Try keeping them in proper position for a while, if thats how it became, the reverse idea should work.
Not finding what you are looking for?