Top 20 1995 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Page 3 Questions & Answers

they are all pretty close, check the plug shape and the different colored wires going in. most stators put out similar voltage and amps, it should have three yellow or white which are the ac voltage and a red and a black for positive and earth, if there are other colors as well make sure the replacement has the same

Fuel starvation.

?Air leak
?Lack of fuel delivery
?Partly blocked jet

Hi
Check/replace inline fuel filter. Put a fuel injector/carb cleaner fluid in the tank and run it through, this will clean any build up that may be in carbs/injectors.
If problem is still persisting then you'll need to get carbs/injectors removed for cleaning and resetting. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Jason

yes they have a permant magnet alternator under the cover on the left side of the crank, it runs in oil. if you have changed the regulator and the battery is good,it is very likely the stator of the alternator. You would really need a manual to check the exact resistances and voltages, but there will be 3 wires of the same color coming out of it, any pair of these will have the same resistance , and any pair should produce about 50v AC, none of these three wires should have continuity to ground.

It would appear that you are correct and lack of lubrication is causing the pins to heat up and fail.

If there is no lube showing in the sight glass, then you simply need to fill it till it appears in the sight glass with the bike level and sitting upright on both tires.

Lack of lubrication will do this everytime, and probably has done other damage as well to other parts of the clutch, trans, and motor.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

Turn the engine over by using a socket on the crank until the T mark lines up, number 1 cylinder is now at top dead center.
The cams are marked 117 in & 117 ex, align these marks with the the cylinder head surface with both facing away from the middle
If they are like that when you have the camshafts bolted down you are OK

Hope this helps (if so please mark as very helpful)

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

take a look at you plug wires and cap if they are worn it could cause the spark to short, and yes a sync never hurts.

Your local dealer will have a size chart available for all the bolts and screws this bike will carry. If the bolts are striped you can drill out the cover holes and heili coil the holes. These should be in the 6mm range screws. Don't sweat the lttle stuff cause the longer you work on older bikes the more you will find somebody has been there before you and in most cases they have blotched something up. And in most cases it is an easy fix and the moron that messed it up just didn't look at it right.

gearebox fals out wen driving???

check fuel filter, fuel pump , gas reserve switch turned correctly to tank? obstruction in fuel line? Spray WD 40 into air box to see if it fires up. Dirty air filter will also cause starting problems

That is the engine temp sensor,

If it is the shaft in the crank case, you will have to pull motor and split the cases. its a pretty big job. Unless you have the tools and shop manual and a lot of patients I would take to a bike shop.
Probably not what you wanted to hear. Sorry

Get yourself a manual, Google it, there are plenty for sale and if you hunt hard enough you should find a freebie. It is easy, it is the putting it back on correctly that is the hard part. :D

Did you cahnge the filter also? Have you ran the motor to build pressure and fill the oil filter. The light should go out when the oil gets pumped threw the filter and engine.

There is a screw on the side of the float bowl near the bottom edge. Just remove the screw. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Popping out of gear is caused by excess wear and/or damage to the transmission gears and/or shift forks. The gears engage each other using what are called "dogs". When the dogs become worn, they allow the gears to force each other apart - especially under accelleration - causing the transmission to pop out of gear. Repairing this mean a complete teardown of the bottom end of the engine will be needed.

The oil leak is a much easier fix; where the shift-shaft goes into the crankcase is a seal. Remove the retaining clip and carefully pry out the old seal and replace it with a new one.

Ok you will have to remove the seat and the fuel tank.
You will need metric wrenchs and sockets and a stanard screw driver and a philip head screw driver.
One you have the tank off you will see the carbs. They will be attached to the airbox by some rubber boots that are held on by a clamp. Unscrew then all till loose. You will see more clamps on the front side of the carbs do the samd as the airbox. There will be 2 cables going to the carbs one is the throttle and one is the choke they will need to be disconected. Now what you need to do it pull the carbs out of the rubber intack boots and work them out of the bike.

check your spark plugs leads
the CDI unit need to be tested for power and make sure that no wires are touching the frame as this could stop your ignition .
the cut off switch could be faulty too .
check all power sources around your motor as a wire could easely burned and earth itself .

Alot of them are 18 mm. You can use a standerd socket to get them loose and reach in with a set of needle nose to retreve the plug once its loose.

you need to do a compression check before you do anything