20 Most Recent 1995 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Ok you will have to remove the seat and the fuel tank.
You will need metric wrenchs and sockets and a stanard screw driver and a philip head screw driver.
One you have the tank off you will see the carbs. They will be attached to the airbox by some rubber boots that are held on by a clamp. Unscrew then all till loose. You will see more clamps on the front side of the carbs do the samd as the airbox. There will be 2 cables going to the carbs one is the throttle and one is the choke they will need to be disconected. Now what you need to do it pull the carbs out of the rubber intack boots and work them out of the bike.

Popping out of gear is caused by excess wear and/or damage to the transmission gears and/or shift forks. The gears engage each other using what are called "dogs". When the dogs become worn, they allow the gears to force each other apart - especially under accelleration - causing the transmission to pop out of gear. Repairing this mean a complete teardown of the bottom end of the engine will be needed.

The oil leak is a much easier fix; where the shift-shaft goes into the crankcase is a seal. Remove the retaining clip and carefully pry out the old seal and replace it with a new one.

you need to do a compression check before you do anything

old ignition switch if it doesnt turn over or bad coil pak

check your spark plugs leads
the CDI unit need to be tested for power and make sure that no wires are touching the frame as this could stop your ignition .
the cut off switch could be faulty too .
check all power sources around your motor as a wire could easely burned and earth itself .

Does it cut out... or does it feel like it does when you run low on fuel and have to switch to reserve?...could be fuel filter is clogged. if after replacing filter try adding some seafoam carb cleaner...you can get it from Autozone for $10. pour about 1/3 can into two to three gallons gas and get on it on some open roads for about 10 to 15 miles and see if that"ll work.. then if that doesnt work you'll have to take fairings off and look at your plugs and plug wires...make sure that the plugs are not worn/broken and that you have tight plug connections.

Timing chain replacement is a bit complex for a beginner. I don't recommend it. However, I would suggest the best way is to have a service manual at hand. Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual.www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
The list of manuals may take 10 to 15 seconds to come up. The 2005 manual (4th from the bottom), is 11MB.



Also, go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

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without seeing it ,i would guess that the hose you are looking at is a breather tube,probably fromm the battery,if the bike is going ok,i wouldnot worry about it to much,if it bothers you ,next time you go past a kawasaki agent pop in and ask one of the mechanics,they are normally more than willing to assist...cheers

Replace the fuel filter and have carbs cleaned

check the caburator and the plug to see that they effective ok

sounds like you have a vacume leak going to the modulator or bad modulator

Probably yes.But to be sure for your measurements put the battery on a charger for 12 hours to be fully charged.When you take it out of the charger it should be reading 12,5V even after 20 hours you have take it off the charger.Then put it on the bike again and measure the current on it's poles in 3-4000 rpm with your high beams on.It should be reading 13,5-14,5V.If not then renew the regulator/rectifier.

cams will only fit 1 wat. if you look at the sprocket on the can it should be stamped inlet or exhaust. when fitting the writing should be facing you so you can see the timming marks. if you have taken the sprocket of the camshaft then you will need to measure the cam lobe the smaller size is the inlet. hope this helps

From the information you have provided it is not possible to give you a definitive answer. If you intend to work on the bike yourself you need three things right away. A manual, tools, and an experienced friend.
A manual so you can see and read about the procedures you'll be performing. Tools so you can physically do the jobs. And an experienced friend to show you how to do the things you don't understand in the manual and help you troubleshoot.

My first guess about the source of your problem would be carburetor issues, but I have no way to know for sure.

Good luck.

One of these pipes is for overflow gas.You just route it downwards.For the other one I need more info.Some bikes have a second overflow tube tha collects the water near the gas cap on the gas tank and goes the same way like the other one.Blow in them from the loose end having them attached to the tank and see what happens.

Check the igintion coils

If lights dim when trying to start,Battery is to weak(may have 12 volts but not enough amps)
Bike dieing when removing power from jumper says the lighting coil on the stator plate is bad and this could also have killed the voltage regulator,Which would kill the battery by over charging it.
Hesitation and carbon smell could be from a non firing cylinder.

So,Take the battery and have it load tested (free at most auto part stores)
Check for power from the lighting coil on the stator
Replace the voltage regulator.


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Assuming you have the other end of the key, carefully put a drop of fresh superglue on the end of it. Don't get sloppy with the glue. Quickly insert the key and hold it with a light pressure downward for 30 seconds. Release the pressure and just let it sit for five minutes. Push down on the key then pull the key out. This has worked well for me every time I have seen the problem.

battary. charge up battary then refit. if you have same problem again you need a new one.

Got gas? Got water in the gas? Drain the carbs and fuel line.

Check for spark. If no spark then check again with a new plug.
Is the kill switch on? Does the side stand have a kill switch? Is it working properly? Tip-over kill switch on your bike? Check the operation of the ignition switch and all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter.
Are all wires clean and with a solid connections? Check the loom. Any abraded wires? Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up? If no neutral light, check the neutral switch and neutral switch wire on center casing. With a little luck this will get you back on the road.

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