1994 kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The vibration could be a number of things. Yes, it could be a balancer issue or it could be warped or worn clutch. Big vees put a lot of stress on the clutch, even when they are designed for it. But, yours could be 14 years old and on the original factory fitted parts.

Camshaft cap bolts are 12 N-m

If everything is on and all voltages are proper at the proper time, all that is left is the starter motor. If it is as you say, the engine must be removed to do it, you may want to talk to the service manager at your Kawasaky shop. This is not a job for the faint of heart, and it does require special skills, tools and knowledge.

Put the bike up on the centre stand on level ground and the oil should be near enough to level with the top make in the sight glass.

When we answer a question you will get an email with a link back to the question you posted. Once you are back you will see the answer.

Probably you best bet is to Google " motorcycle salvage Kawasaki "

If the bike is running great, there will be no "benifits" in changing plugs. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You can follow that advice or simply fix the bike until it is broken. Same difference. Best wishes, Tombones

www.ajcyclesalvage.com - 610 521 6700

think what i would try first is a fuel additive to see if you possible might have gotten a little moisture or dirt in tank , I like sea-foam brand available @ advance auto or other auto stores but i would try this first and see results , black plugs could mean rich mix not enough air or moisture in fuel the latter is easiest to eliminate

look on colorrite.com for it.........I looked but couldn't find it but sometimes bikes have two different "names"

Hope you find it

you need to check your tyre and it may also require balancing as it is a big bike.The bearing do not normally cause this but it is a good and safe thing to check it.

go to service center

The carbs have been balanced but not synchronized? Each of the four carb slides needs to begin to open at the exact same time. Being out of sync can cause your problem. The balance and sync on a four cylinder bike is best done in the shop. If you try it yourself have a fire extinguisher handy. < < I am serious here.

Since the carbs have been cleaned and 'adjusted', I will take the liberty to note the air screw and the idle screw factory settings and how to set them. On each carb, GENTLY turn both screws inward until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw outward one and one half turns. Now you are back to the stock settings.

If your bike has CDI ignition, the timing is preset and is not adjustable.

Please rate this answer. Thanks Corrie!

https://japan.webike.net/KAWASAKI/ZZR1100+%28ZX-11%29/CLYMER/472/1988/mb get one of these.. it will give you the trouble shooting instructions..

The problem is the tank is not uniformly shaped, narrower near the bottom. As the fuel drops below the widest parts into the narrower parts, it drops faster. This is something you are probably going to have to live with.

you could try calling kawasaki.

It's on the head stock on the right hand side.between the forks on the frame.

Is thebike leaking? If not your rings are fooked.

Fuel Pump Pressure Standard: 11 - 16 kPa (0.11 - 0.16 kg/em', 1.6 - 2.3 psi) Hope this helps Ken

hi there, this table will help you. I used to own one.. beautiful bikes easy to work on too! Valves: Valve clearance: Inlet 0.13 0.19 mm Exhaust 0.18 0.24 mm Valve head thickness: Inlet 0.5mm 0.25 mm Exhaust 0.8mm 0.5mm Valve stem bend 0.05 mm TIR Valve stem diameter: Inlet 4.975 4.990 mm 4.96 mm Exhaust 4.955 4.970 mm 4.94 mm Valve guide inside diameter 5.000 5.01 2 mm 5.08 mm Valve/valve guide clearance (wobble method): Inlet 0.02 0.07 mm 0.18 mm Exhaust 0.06 0.11 mm 0.21 mm Valve seating surface: Outside diameter: Inlet 30.8 31.0 mm Exhaust 26.3 26.5 mm Width 0.5 1.0 mm Valve spring free length: Inner 35.5 mm 33.6 mm Outer 40.5 mm 38.6 mm Valve seat cutting angle 32 degrees, 45 degrees, 60 degrees Hope it helps.. Ken