1994 kawasaki ZZR 600 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

After sitting and engine cold?

If you look just under the upper frame rail on the left side under the fuel shutoff valve there should be a plastic knob on the end of a cable in a hook shaped clip. This adjusts the mechanical idle. Correct idle speed is 1100 RPM.

If it was OK before you fitted the new cable then you didn't do it properly. Take it off and do it again 'by the book' ensuring you routed it correctly, no tight bends & fitted it properly at the clutch thrust rod & handle bar end. With engine OFF, raise the back wheel & try engaging other gears whilst rotating the rear wheel, gears won't go in if you don't turn the wheel. No stand? push it back & forth & try gears again. All the clutch does is disconnect the engine from the gear box/back wheel. So if gears still don't go in/out you must have done something else you're not telling us about!

If you change the engine oil you are doing the gear box as well. They share the same crank case and oil.

I have always used 10W40W, any good quality brand will do, synthetic if u don't mind the extra cost.

what condition is your air filter in? put in some new plugs and go from there. if the air filter and new plugs don't fix the problem check yorclutch adjustment.

oil change and new plug should work

on the steering head on the frame, in between the upper and lower triple clamps.

Under the seat is a fuse box or Kawasaki calls it a Junction box, when checking the fuses its always goo to use a multi-meter, sometimes a fuse may look good but it actually isn't

Yes remove tank & there is good access to the coils. It is a good idea to label the H.T. leads & +/- wires (red is +) for ease of assembly
It is unlikely that you NEED to replace both coils to rectify a sparking problem

Ride safe
Bike-Doc
Please mark this as very helpful (if it has been!!)

that wire is ground,does is get hot smoke burn fuses or the like,if you are reading it open with the test meter in the gap its normal because the meter is reading dc volts that are on the output side of other circuits.what is the problem that you are having because of this?

Carburator Theory and Tuning


For some reason everyone seems to think tuning a carb is just real easy. Change a jet or two and boom, your there. Yeah, right ! There are quite literally millions and millions of jet combinations. A rough check on Bing carbs shows there are at least 13,860,000 different combinations of jets. If you are going to change carbs you'd better be prepared to spend some time and money on the job.
If you look at a carburetor, you will notice a rather large hole going from one side to the other. This is called a Venturi. Air passes into the engine through this hole (Venturi). As the velocity of the air entering the carb (and then the engine) increases, it's pressure decreases, creating a low pressure or vacuum in the venturi. This vacuum moves around in the venturi, as the throttle is opened, and sucks gasoline through the different jets in the carb. The gas then mixes with the air going through the venturi. The way the jets are made causes the fuel to vaporize as it goes into the venturi. Where the jets are placed in the carb and where the jet's outlet is located in the venturi, determines what part of the throttle opening that jet controls. The idle jet system (comprised of pilot air jet, pilot fuel jet and pilot fuel screw) controls from 0% to about 25% of the throttle opening. The throttle valve controls 0% to 35% of the throttle opening. The needle jet and jet needle control from 15% to 80% of the throttle opening and the main jet controls 60% to 100%. This means that when you open the throttle about one eighth of the way open, all of the gas/air mixture going into your engine is controlled by the idle jet. As you can see, the different jets over lap the operating range of each other. That is, the jet needle starts to effect things before the effect of the idle jet ends. This is something to remember when working on carbs... everything is interconnected. Change one thing and it will effect other things.
OK, let's go over the different systems in the carb and see what they do.

1. Fuel level. The fuel level is controlled by the fuel floats and the fuel float valve. The floats are hollow or made of something that will float on gasoline, such as cork. Part of the float presses against the float valve, sometimes called a needle and seat. Most times the part of the float that touches the float valve needle is bendable so you can adjust the level of the fuel in the floatbowel. All plastic floats are not adjustable. If this level is way too high, gas can leak out the carb overflow tube or into the engine. If fuel gets into the engine it will thin out the engine oil, ruining it's ability to lubricate. This will, sooner or later, blow up your engine ! If a full tank of gas in the evening turns into a half tank by morning, check your oil. If it's thin and smells like gas, change it and replace your float valve and/or check your fuel level. If the oil is OK, check under the overflow tube. If it's OK, then check where you are parking your bike 'cuse someone is walking away with your gas ! If your fuel level is just a bit high, the mixture will tend to be a bit rich. If it's low, the mixture will tend to be a bit lean. This is because a high level takes less vacuum to **** fuel into the engine and a low level takes more vacuum to do the same.
   
   
   
2. Pilot or idle jet system. The idle jet controls the idle and on up to quarter throttle, give or take a bit. On some carbs, like Mikuni there is an air jet too. In conjunction with the idle jet there is an idle jet air screw. This screw leans or richens the fuel mixture for a smooth idle and on up to one quarter throttle. From the idle jet, there are little passages cast into the carb that lead to holes just in front of the throttle valve or plate. There can be just one hole or there can be several, depending on the carb design. They effect the mixture as long as the vacuum, in the venturi, is over them. As the throttle opens further, the vacuum moves to the needle jet and jet needle.
3. The Throttle Valve. The big slide that opens and closes your throttle has a bevel angle cut in one side of the big round (can be flat, too) slide, toward the air cleaner. This angle comes in several sizes and helps control the fuel mixture from idle to about 35% open throttle.
4. Needle Jet. This jet doesn't really even look like a jet, but it is ! It controls the fuel mixture from 15% to 60% open throttle. It sets in the center of the carb, right over the main jet.
5. Jet Needle. This is the needle that rides in the throttle slide and goes into the needle jet. This needle controls the fuel mixture from 20% to 80% open throttle. It can come in many different sized tapers. Sometimes, one needle can have several tapers on it. The top end of the needle has grooves cut in it, usually five, and you can move the little clip on the end up or down to lean (down) or richen (up) the mixture. Most late model bikes have needles with only one groove cut in them. This is so you can't richen the mixture, thereby keeping the EPA happy.
6. Main Jet. This jet controls the fuel mixture from 60% to 100% open throttle.

while installing the new part you may made some mistake. take it to the kawasaki worksop and check the new part with an expert

i dont think they will fit...try to see if the bolt mounting holes fit??...& are the spaced right for the disc's...you may have to make another mounting plate up to fit them

the key code shud be under the key switch if not ask a tech where it is on that model

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On your need for the wiring diagram of a Kawasaki ZZR600, please click here.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

the firing order 1 2 4 3. from left to right as you sit on the bike, the leads are numberd..

bad gas possibly?-just a thought

Sorry, the bike has a bent shift fork. It is expensive to repair and not recommended as a fix-it-yourself project.

There may be a 'kill' switch, check it and see if its ok.
Get a 'live' wire to the pump (by pass) and thn try to start it..if it does thn theres a problem to the wire for the pump from the ignition switch, you may have to trace it out and rectify.
Hope this helps!