Hola, Guille_972 para este escenario, necesitar? su manual de servicio que tiene todas las especificaciones de torsi?n del sujetador y un diagrama de cableado en las p?ginas posteriores, la ficha de partes y el manual del propietario si no puede encontrar la mejor herramienta que haya comprado para su Kawasaki, desesperaci?n No, por un mero cero $ 0 puedes descargar otro. Para obtener m?s informaci?n sobre su problema y las valiosas descargas "GRATUITAS" que necesitar? para ver o imprimir, haga clic en los enlaces azules a continuaci?n. Buena suerte y que tengas un maravilloso d?a.
Hi, Michaelch9 before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for, corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Turn signal front and rear including dash will not work NEED HELP... KLR 650 Turn Signal Not Flashing Fix Kawasaki ZX6 ZZR600 90 97 pdf OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals
Hi, John if you have changed your engine size, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 95 zx6r carb tuning Help please ZZR600 Carb balancing explained Kawasaki ZZR600 ZZ R600 1990 2000 Service Repair Manual Download Manuals... $15 OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
If you look just under the upper frame rail on the left side under the fuel shutoff valve there should be a plastic knob on the end of a cable in a hook shaped clip. This adjusts the mechanical idle. Correct idle speed is 1100 RPM.
If it was OK before you fitted the new cable then you didn't do it properly. Take it off and do it again 'by the book' ensuring you routed it correctly, no tight bends & fitted it properly at the clutch thrust rod & handle bar end. With engine OFF, raise the back wheel & try engaging other gears whilst rotating the rear wheel, gears won't go in if you don't turn the wheel. No stand? push it back & forth & try gears again. All the clutch does is disconnect the engine from the gear box/back wheel. So if gears still don't go in/out you must have done something else you're not telling us about!
Yes remove tank & there is good access to the coils. It is a good idea to label the H.T. leads & +/- wires (red is +) for ease of assembly It is unlikely that you NEED to replace both coils to rectify a sparking problem
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that wire is ground,does is get hot smoke burn fuses or the like,if you are reading it open with the test meter in the gap its normal because the meter is reading dc volts that are on the output side of other circuits.what is the problem that you are having because of this?