1993 kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Bike engine oil normally goes into the clutch housing (right hand side of engine.This picture shows your bikes oil filler plug.

CHECK THE WIRE BY THE OIL DRAIN NUT ITS PROBLEY CRODED

make sure nothing is left on when bike is not running then check all lighting to check for a draw disconnect the neg post then place a test light between the circuits after draw is determined start tracing the different circuits

It is called a Woodruff key (12 in the drawing). You should get it at the agents or most better bearing and seal outlets should keep a range of them.

check your oil level!!or change your oil!!

right side of the engine about ten inches above your big toe when your on the bike.

Use the highest octane gasoline you can find.

hi deon,, in theory u can use any fuel pump on bikes,, most pressure is the same on all makes, wen the carbs are full of fuel the will shut off automaticly,,so yes u can use an after market one,,,cheeeers

https://japan.webike.net/KAWASAKI/ZZR1100+%28ZX-11%29/CLYMER/472/1988/mb get one of these.. it will give you the trouble shooting instructions..

The problem is the tank is not uniformly shaped, narrower near the bottom. As the fuel drops below the widest parts into the narrower parts, it drops faster. This is something you are probably going to have to live with.

you could try calling kawasaki.

It's on the head stock on the right hand side.between the forks on the frame.

Is thebike leaking? If not your rings are fooked.

Fuel Pump Pressure Standard: 11 - 16 kPa (0.11 - 0.16 kg/em', 1.6 - 2.3 psi) Hope this helps Ken

hi there, this table will help you. I used to own one.. beautiful bikes easy to work on too! Valves: Valve clearance: Inlet 0.13 0.19 mm Exhaust 0.18 0.24 mm Valve head thickness: Inlet 0.5mm 0.25 mm Exhaust 0.8mm 0.5mm Valve stem bend 0.05 mm TIR Valve stem diameter: Inlet 4.975 4.990 mm 4.96 mm Exhaust 4.955 4.970 mm 4.94 mm Valve guide inside diameter 5.000 5.01 2 mm 5.08 mm Valve/valve guide clearance (wobble method): Inlet 0.02 0.07 mm 0.18 mm Exhaust 0.06 0.11 mm 0.21 mm Valve seating surface: Outside diameter: Inlet 30.8 31.0 mm Exhaust 26.3 26.5 mm Width 0.5 1.0 mm Valve spring free length: Inner 35.5 mm 33.6 mm Outer 40.5 mm 38.6 mm Valve seat cutting angle 32 degrees, 45 degrees, 60 degrees Hope it helps.. Ken

Normal setup is 36 front and 42 rear

Always very frustrating when you have an issue like this. Just to recap on my understanding what you have ruled out: - not a battery issue as you have a car battery linked up!? - not the starter motor as you have tried a second one!? - rotation is only slightly better with the plugs removed ( trust this is all four? ) My suggestions would be: 1) remove all the plugs and with the bike in neutral, remove the timing cover at the crank and turn the crank clockwise and see how much resistance you get over a few full revolutions. Everything should move nice and easy, if it does not then there is something mechanically wrong in the engine. 2) when did you last change the oil and filter? I would suggest you do this to ensure you do not have a load of sludge in there which will certainly add lots of resistance when cranking a cold motor. 3) is it possible you are experiencing clutch drag? When cranking the bike pull the clutch in to ensure the clutch is truly disengaged and not dragging. Try the above points and let me know how you get on. redzed.proboards.com

It may be dirty carbs try cleaning them and make sure non of the jets are clogged

sounds like the fuel sending unit in the tank and the temp sensor is probably bad or grounded out

Try keeping them in proper position for a while, if thats how it became, the reverse idea should work.