Hi, Thomas if your bike has been sitting idle for weeks, months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future use a fuel stabilizer before putting your bike in storage for the winter.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://motorcycleviews.com/maintain/psstart01.htm How To Get Stored Motorcycle Running Motorcycle Repair Kawasaki ZXR400 Service Manual Supplement OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki ZXR400 User Manual
If you have a voltage meter, connect it to the battery, you should have at least 12.2 volts, hit the starter button and watch the meter...if the meter does not drop, then no power is going to the starter. Let me know what you find.
Assuming it ran well before you installed new plugs, it sounds as if you installed plugs with an improper heat range. Black sooted up plugs indicates a too rich fuel mixture. If you have the proper plugs, check to be sure the plug wires are tight on the new plugs. Crossed plug wires could also cause backfiring.
ello mr,,if u have a spark on the plugs,,u should now start lookin at the fuel, ,does the fuel pump come on wen u turn the ignition on,, if that is ok id be enclined to clean the jets in the carbs m8,, to eliminate a fuel blockage,, try this 1st,b4 i take u threw the next step,, any probs still come back and il anserw u,cheers now
Sounds like a bad starter without knowing what sounds it made when you turned it over etc. if it did absolutely nothing when you tried to start it but started when jumped via solenoid it’s either wiring between the button and starter or wiring between the solenoid and starter itself
Like all mechanical issues this is just a matter of elimination.
There is no mention of the exhaust system in the comment.
Is the motor backfiring despite the exhaust? Is there a corroded suppression baffle increasing back pressure? "... looking back this issue has slowly got worse"
There is a balance in the explosive gases, based on the comment.
So it seems the ignition chamber gases / fuel mix is correct. But there is enough fuel air ratio to post ignite, seems like an exhaust side issue from the comments.
try removing your spark plug then turn your engine over a few times but be careful there may be some oil or gas that sputters out so have a rag ready. Do that a few times until you dont see anything coming out then replace spark plug and try starting it again. If that doesnt solve it you may have to replace you rings ( on the pistons)
Remove the silencer and clean up the down pipe and silencer ends.
Use a liberal amount of exhaust repair paste and push the silencer back on.
Refit the clamp that holds the pipes together and replace any perished rubberised band that may be used.
Run the motor on idle for about 10 mins to harden the paste and the leave overnight.
Recheck the clamp for tightness and hopefully all should be well with the world, the sun will be shining and you can go for a ride.
hi you dont say what model kawasaki you have im assuming you have a transverse four like a z1000 generally speaking as you sit on the bike the outer cylinders are 1 and 4 the inner cylinders are 2 and 3 ,now again im assuming you have two coils, each coil has two plug leads
coming out of them coil number one will serve cylinders 1 and 4 it doesnt matter which of these leads goes to either 1or 4 as bikes use a wasted spark system and will spark on the exhaust stroke as well, coil number 2 will serve cylinders 2 and 3 again it wont matter which plug lead goes to either 2or3 ok now for the tough part
you need to find the sparking point for no1 cylinder remove no1 spark plug probably the outer left cylinder as your sat on the bike and turn the engine over by putting the bike in gear (only do this with no plug leads connected as it could start unexpectedly in gear ) and push or bump the bike gently with the clutch out to bring the piston to the top of the bore a small torch would be handy for this to shine down the plug hole you then need to find a timing cover on the outside of the engine
you may need a service manual for this as there are many variations but usally there are two pick up modules one for each coil the timing marks correspond to each coil with cylinder 1 at the top of the bore the timing mark should be near number 1 pick up module now that you know which module number one is follow the wiring back to the coil ,each pick up wiring is a different colour like black and orange wires for one coil and black and green for another when you have found number one coil attach plug leads to it and fit them to cylinders 1 and 4 you then fit the remaining coil with plug leads to 2 and 3 cylinders refit the spark plug take the bike out of gear and go for a start good luck with this
I'll need some more information. Does the bike start at all? Does it idle fine, but then dies if you give it gas? Try to explain in detail what is going on so I can help you with this. There are a few things to check for, start by making sure your gas is good DON'T USE ANY GAS WITH ETHANOL (corn stuff) and that it is new. Another thing is to make sure you are getting spark. A simple way is to take the spark plug out while keeping it in the wire and touching it to the outside of the engine (grounding it), turn the motor over and you should see spark. If not, thats something you will need to correct. You don't have a year or what type of motorcycle so I'm assuming its a late 70's, early 80's KZ400 you are talking about. If so, the points could be the culprit as well (if the spark isn't going). But for the most part, the "needle" settings will only help with it's ability to rev high (main jet) and if it dies at idle, your idle jet is plugged up. Get back to us on the specifics and I can help more.
Here is a great site if it IS a KZ400 http://www.kz400.com/