20 Most Recent 1991 kawasaki ZZR 600 Questions & Answers

blocked air system change air filter

leave the bleed nipples open for about five mins with the resevoir topped up,the fluid should have started coming out the bleed nipples by then,then carry on with bleeding as normal.

try a bigger one, sounds like the one youve got can cope with the power.

Hi, this means that the pistons of your front brake are not recovering properly.
If you feel confortabe with that job, you must remove brake caliper , then remove cilinders and all the protection rubber and sealing rings. Give the cilinders a good cleaning (check for scrathes or rust) replace sealers and reasemble all. Change the brake fluid and purge the circuit properly
good luck

I had a key made from a volkswagon or something for my Kawasaki, there are a couple of key blanks that will fit. Try the blank first, then get it cut. I don't think you have a chip on that bike to prevent the anti-theft thing from going on. But fairly sure a newer key will fit no problem. Hope this helps.

has the bike been sitting? if so you may need the carbs redone. also did the previuos owner do any after market mods, say exhaust system? for every mod you make there are ussualy 2 or more you will have to make pluss adjustments.

IF THE MAIN JETS ARE STOPPED UP A TEARDOWN WILL BE A MUST.
Sorry To check this out get the bike ready and warmed up. Start out normal and when it starts loosing power choke the thing a little. and increase choke until it runs "stronger" if this works then the carbs are stopped up. Main jets
Good Luck and Ride Safe

Yes but just take the bike to a professional power bike repairer.

Im not sure about "bolt straight on" but it should be very close. most times bike models run for years without much major change. You may have to change a few brackets, or do a bit of bending and filing to get it to fit. The 06 ZZR has the twin headlights. I looked at some pictures carefully of the two different models. The frame is the same for both, so there is a good chance it will bolt straight on.

I dont have the exact same bike but on my Kawa it has 1 bolt to the rear of the tank(located under the front of the seat) and 2 on the front of the tank(behind the yoke) which bolt onto the frame. On some older models it only has the rear bolt. Removing these require unbolting the rear and then lifting up first the rear and sliding the tank backwards. Remember to close the fuel valve and remove the pipes before removing the tank. Also take note of which pipe goes where. A piece of masking tape does wonders!

Only one thing to do, take off the carbs and soak them real good, get the gum out, and make sure the jets are clean, so you can blow through them, some of that gas gets in there and dries hard as a rock. You will need a piece of wire to bust it out, don't try drilling it, I tried once, I made a diesel. A guitar string works good, about .009 is the smallest, you can get them at the music store out of the garbage. I would get a whole set, then you have some stiff wires for cleaning such things. It should do it. I think most jets are fixed,. You might need an air flow meter to make sure all of them are the same. Hope this helps.

its on the sump...on the under side of the engine...above the exhaust pipes...normaly a 19/17mm bolt

Hello Alex.
If you have spark at all the cylinders the next item I would check is compression. Make sure they are all relatively equal.
If you put your bike away for long periods of time your fuel may have gone bad or the carbs may be dirty and plugged up.
Fuel goes bad quickly and if it has ethanol in it it separates from the gasoline within a month.
Drain old fuel and replenish with fresh fuel. Drain the carbs too.
Try it again. If it still runs poorly you will most likely have to overhaul the carbs.
Check valve clearances too if it hasn't been done for a while.

KL

Take a spark plug out go buy 4 and put them in.

sometimes fuses that good shud be tested-chec wiring thru bike for cutz n corrosion-a bad relay can giv these symtoms--secure a repair manual for detailed procedures or ask dealer tech

Lets start with the basics...
1. be sure your battery is in good shape and fully charged ( at least 12.6 volts)
2. starting procedure- ignition key to 'on', tranny in nuetral, right hand kill switch to 'run', pull clutch in fully and hit starter button.
3. does it do anything? clicks?... If you get nothing then the problem is likely in the clutch switch, kill switch, or the starter button. You will need a wiring diagram and volt meter to trace down where the power is lost. If you are getting 12 volts to the starter but its not engaging then you can suspect the starter/ solonoid.

PS... My clutch switch has been going bad for a few years now ( Im too lazy to replace such a trivial thing as a safety switch ;). Sometimes I need to hold the start button and work the clutch till the starter engages.

check float valve level could be sticking or shuting your fuel off also make sure you have good fuel flow from fuel valve