20 Most Recent 1990 kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Change your oil pressure sender switch. It should fix the problem. If it does not you will need to replace the oil pump.

If the length is the same then yes but what the ride will be like, I wouldn't like to speculate.

CHECK THE TREADS , IF YOU HAVE CROSSED THE TREADS THEN YOU WOULD GOT A BIG PROBLEM

Get the rear wheel off the ground and adjust the chain tension. When checking the tension spin the rear wheel and check that the tension does not go slack or get tighter. If the chain is riding up and down the sprocket teeth then the chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. This is the grinding/clunking noise you are hearing. If the sprockets are worn consider a chain and sprocket set, it can be a less expensive option than buying the parts separately.

I've only dismantled a '96 600 brakes but they looked almost the same as these exploded views. For each piston there are 2 seals. If you look at the seal you will see that they are asymmetrical - looking something like the letter G is cross section. To install them you put the bottom one with the channel down in the groove and the second one with the channel up on the lip - it's there to act mainly as a dust boot, the first one is the actual oil seal.

Are all jets set properly? How about needle and seat? The needle and seat do get warped. Do check you spark plug gap as well.

Have theignition module checked out
That maybe the cause or a bad connection in the connectors to it

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For 93-00 Kawasaki ZZR1100, the oil pressure switch wire is blue/red.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Not really it all depends on what you like. There are many after market ones available. You might use this opportunity to pick up a set that is positioned closer to your riding style. You want to be sure to reuse the counter weights also.
Why did your set break? If not from an accident I would revisit a dealer to determine if they were defective. Hope this helps.

JP

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..

I'm assuming you have already checked the actual bulb is still OK? The bike uses a 'twin element' bulb so the tail light element might still work but the brake light element has blown. It's designed to be two bulbs in one so it takes up less space.On a lot of vehicles some electrical features share a fuse and only some of them are marked on the fuse box lid. Has anything else stopped working? On some Kawasaki bikes the brake light shares a fuse with the horn and the tail light so if the fuse has blown all three won't be working. Check the fuse labelled as the Horn to see if that has 'Popped'.*NOTE* ONLY replace fuses with one of the SAME Amp rating as lower 'A' fuses will blow and higher 'A' fuses won't protect your electrics.Bulbs and fuses are usually cheap to buy so you could replace them anyway before thinking it's going to be a 'Big' repair.

If your Kawasaki ZZR600 suddenly stopped firing, there are several possible reasons for this. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can take to identify and resolve the issue:

1. Check the battery: A weak or dead battery can prevent the engine from starting. Make sure the battery is fully charged and has a voltage of at least 12.5 volts.
2. Check the spark plugs: The spark plugs may be fouled, worn out, or damaged. Remove the spark plugs and inspect them for signs of wear or damage. If necessary, replace the spark plugs.
3. Check the ignition system: The ignition coils, ignition module, and wiring may be faulty. Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the coils and check the wiring for continuity. Replace any faulty components as needed.
4. Check the fuel system: The fuel filter may be clogged, the fuel pump may be faulty, or there may be a problem with the fuel injectors. Check the fuel pressure and flow, and inspect the fuel filter and injectors for any signs of clogging or damage.
5. Check the carburetor (if applicable): If your ZZR600 has a carburetor, it may be dirty or clogged. Remove the carburetor and clean it thoroughly with carburetor cleaner.
6. Check the camshaft timing: If the camshaft timing is off, the engine may not fire properly. Check the timing marks and adjust the camshaft if necessary.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, you may need to take your ZZR600 to a qualified mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.