20 Most Recent 1990 kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Bottom of motor there is about a 31/2" round cover with a bolt through the middle thats the filter you may have to remove the exhaust to get to it on your bike

Here is the fallback method that has always worked for me: have the float arms (that part of the float which attaches the floats to the hinge) parallel to the float bowl gasket surface just as the float valve contacts the float - without depressing the spring loaded tip on the valve. Frankly, I have used float gauge maybe once in my life - this method is much faster and easier.

first check the bulb...u can easily do that by putting it in another pig tail that you know works..if ok, check connection on shift sensor on engine, usuall located somewheres near the shift drum & will be on the outside of the engine.the shift sensor is just a short to ground system..disconnect the wire & with a continuity meter shift bike to determine if the fault is with the sender or the wire that feeds power to the indicator light in your dash..

it could be just a bulb in the clock or it could be the switch in the gear box, even a broken wire could stop the light from working,,,

The relay is in/on the circuit board mounted under the seat. Should have one large or two small pulgs going to it. Two small realys on that board. Best way to check the power out of the realy to the fuel pump is to unplug the pump and read the two wires for 12 Vdc.  

this cn be a starter problem, better check that area.

Assuming it is a standard cable and not hydraulic, ( I can't remember which your bike has ), Lubricate the cable and change the gearbox oil and filter. Ride for 50 miles or so then change the oil again but not the filter. This will flush out the dirt and grit that is hampering the clutch. Your clutch cable is probably pretty old and in questionable condition. Consider installing a new cable.

The spec sheet doesn't say if your model has fuel injection or carbs. Assuming carbs, disassemble and clean them. You will want the shop to balance and sync the carbs as well. This should get you back on the road in style.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

You need to clean your carbs. Something is gummed up inside. Most likely pilot jet, but need to clean and synchronize them.

Check inside your fuel tank!

https://japan.webike.net/KAWASAKI/ZZR1100+%28ZX-11%29/CLYMER/472/1988/mb get one of these.. it will give you the trouble shooting instructions..

The problem is the tank is not uniformly shaped, narrower near the bottom. As the fuel drops below the widest parts into the narrower parts, it drops faster. This is something you are probably going to have to live with.

you could try calling kawasaki.

It's on the head stock on the right hand side.between the forks on the frame.

Is thebike leaking? If not your rings are fooked.

Fuel Pump Pressure Standard: 11 - 16 kPa (0.11 - 0.16 kg/em', 1.6 - 2.3 psi) Hope this helps Ken

hi there, this table will help you. I used to own one.. beautiful bikes easy to work on too! Valves: Valve clearance: Inlet 0.13 0.19 mm Exhaust 0.18 0.24 mm Valve head thickness: Inlet 0.5mm 0.25 mm Exhaust 0.8mm 0.5mm Valve stem bend 0.05 mm TIR Valve stem diameter: Inlet 4.975 4.990 mm 4.96 mm Exhaust 4.955 4.970 mm 4.94 mm Valve guide inside diameter 5.000 5.01 2 mm 5.08 mm Valve/valve guide clearance (wobble method): Inlet 0.02 0.07 mm 0.18 mm Exhaust 0.06 0.11 mm 0.21 mm Valve seating surface: Outside diameter: Inlet 30.8 31.0 mm Exhaust 26.3 26.5 mm Width 0.5 1.0 mm Valve spring free length: Inner 35.5 mm 33.6 mm Outer 40.5 mm 38.6 mm Valve seat cutting angle 32 degrees, 45 degrees, 60 degrees Hope it helps.. Ken

Normal setup is 36 front and 42 rear